What tap do I need for the PSI stopper chuck?

[sachbvn]

So, I'm real tired of screwing up the blank when I try and thread the PSI bottle stopper chuck into it. I am having stoppers that are not seating properly, and it's really pissing me off.

What size tap do I need to solve this?? I looked on the PSI website and can't find it anywhere, I don't feel like calling them as I'm sure someone knows this off hand.


Also - using the PSI chuck that I have, (I know others use it too) what method works for you guys to insure a good tight fit? (the stopper and the bottom of the blank)

Do you just make dang sure that you have it threaded in squarely - or what?


Thanks,
Zac

[maverick31]

I am not sure what size tap you need, I don't use one. I hand thread them on and have not ever had a problem. I usually drill a 1 inch deep hole and let her rip. I would think the proper method would be to drill and tap but it has not caused me any problems this far. what size drill bit are you using? I had the same problem when I first started and when I realized the psi drill bit is too big for the mandrel, I bought a smaller bit and no more problems with getting the stopper to stay tight on the mandrel

[sachbvn]

Using my drill index - I got some smaller than the 23/64 bit that came with the PSI stopper chuck - having read your post regarding it being slightly too big.


Zac

[TDHofstetter]

I'll verify to be absolutely positive, but I BELIEVE it's 3/8"-20. I've got a PSI arbor downstairs right now I can check against with my big set o' dies. Gimme a sec - it's nearly cigarette-break time, which is when I'll check it.

[sachbvn]

Thanks for smoking Tim...err... I mean - thanks for checking!

Zac

[TDHofstetter]

Ok, here's th' deal. Mine is 3/8"-16 (standard UNC) threads, which wants a 5/16" drill bit for tapping. It may help to drill & tap, then thread a nut onto the arbor temporarily, zock the blank down onto it, true up the back end, then take the nut out to zock the blank all the way down. Then the blank will seat true & square onto the body of the arbor.

If you choose not to tap, I think I'd go with about 1/64" larger drill bit; that'd make it a 21/64", but otherwise use the same procedure to true up the backside. That'd make the blank a "squeak-fit" onto the stopper. If you tap, it may thread on & off the stopper too easily, begging for an adhesive.

[maxwellsmart007]

Here's the big trick, Zac - and it's an easy one to do!

On those ones that don't seal - screw the stopper in as far as you can. Dang - there's a small gap, right? Not for long.

Unscrew the bottom. The cone will come off, but the stub will stay on. Take a pair of locking plyers, and tighten the stub another full turn or so...be careful not to wreck the threads, but a little bit of minor mangling won't hurt them...then screw the cone back on, and you're set, with no gap.

Really - it's worked for me many times!

[maverick31]

tims right, I went and checked the bit i use for the psi mandrel and it is a 21/64, it is pretty tight so once I screw mine on the mandrel I immediately back off about 3/4 of the way and then i retighten everything/then turn. I agree with maxwell smart except I have an extra chrome stopper that i put on gripping with a pair of pliers once the stem is fully seated and the fitment is good I use the pliers to back off the damaged head and then install the good one and I am done. I have used the damaged head for every stopper I make and it works well. It looks like crap but serves its purpose

[Doug B]

A couple of things to consider Zac. I think you have mentioned that you are drilling without a pen vise (works for bottle stoppers too!). Very important is to get the blank drilled square to the base of the stopper blank. There are a couple of ways to do that, like what Tim mentioned about using a nut and squaring up the blank to the drilled hole - I have actually not ever thought of that, but it sure makes sense to me.

But, I think the easiest thing to do is to make sure you start out with a very square blank to begin with (trim it on the miter saw if you need to) and then make sure you drill the hole in the blank square to the base of the stopper blank. A very small engineers square is what I use to make sure the drill bit is perfectly square with the blank base and that is about the only way to do it with any accuracy if you are dealing with something that is not square (like a pine cone!)

Now, if after all your efforts the stopper still has a gap on one side only, it is possible to square it up on the belt sander, but I have had mixed results trying that...it can be done if you drilled and tapped deep enough and you have the patience and skill to keep sanding the bottom of the blank until you get the fit you want. I have neither, so it is best for me to make sure it is square to begin with

I go with the directions provided as far as which drill bit to use...11/32 or 23/64 depending on the stopper hardware used, and I always drill deeper than required just like Mav said he does. Then I tap the hole using a 3/8-16 tap. I like the idea that I can change out the stopper hardware if the customer wants something different or I can replace the stopper top if that ever comes up (I have not needed to do that yet...knock on wood!).

On very soft material...e.g. pine cones...I drop some thin CA into the drilled hole and work it around with a toothpick then hit it with some accelerator before tapping the hole. That provides some very good threads for the stopper hardware to hold onto. Maybe it is just me, but I like the idea of being able to remove the stopper hardware if I ever find the need to do so. I know that if anyone ever complains about the stopper being too loose I can use some CA glue to permanently bond the stopper parts together.

Good luck!

[boodrow]

Zac its a 3/8 x 16 . And to confuse u more there is a regular tap and a bottom tap. I have both , rarely use the bottom tap , so be sure u get the reg tap. Also when u tap it depending on how hard the wood is makes a diff how far u tap it. Also they will tell u to use a 11/32 drill bit , I used to but had to many strip out on the lathe , I use a 5/16 brad point bit. Put u a piece of tape on it for depth and ur good to go. Back to the tap depth , if is real hard wood like bois de arc , I tap it all the way , if its cocobolo or zebra wood I tap it just far enough for some good startin threads then screw it on to mandrel , makin new threads in the wood as I go. I have had some I thought I would never get off the lathe they were so tite. So what I do there is screw it on to the mandrel , and while still a square piece of wood u can grip it whole lot better so I then back it off just a little then re titen. Hopes this help , Boodrow. I know bottle stoppers dont compare to a high end project , but would yall like me to do a tutorial via a camera and post it , Meanin what tools I use and how I use um.
Boodrow

[boodrow]

Zac after reading Tims post , I always use 2 part epoxy on the part of the stopper that threads into the wood. I use nothing to screw the stopper to the stud stickin out of the wood , that way if anyone ever damaged the neoprene they can replace just the bottom part , other wise they would have to chunk it.
Boodrow

[sachbvn]

Boodrow,

A video tutorial would be the chit! I am going after a tap tonight for the part that threads into the wood - it is in fact a 3/8"-16 thread.

At this point - I've never had an issue with the threads being too loose, especially since I've not tapped them prior to putting on the chuck, but if I do - I'll CA or epoxy them in place - I will NOT, however be putting any glue on the stud that sticks out of the wood, unless I have someone who thinks THAT part is too loose, then I would glue it for them.

Oh - and YES, I had already thought about about being MUCH easier to screw on and off while the blank is square - I already tighten it all the way, and then back it out a bit, then tighten. Makes getting the stopper off the chuck MUCH easier - but good call!

Alright - I'm out.

Zac

[boodrow]

Zac I just got in the house from my shop , been workin on another cat box. I will try to do the stopper thang tomorrow , Ive had lots of probs postin pics , much less with some explanation. With some help I can do it. May have to call on somebody to tell me how to add pic to what im doin.
Boodrow

[Ruffnek]

Boodrow,

I think a pictoral on how you craft bottle stoppers would be the bee's knees! Too bad I'm offshore or I would do the pic taking while you do the crafting and explanation. I wonder if there is any chance you could get Stretch to help you do a video?

However you do it, I think it's a great idea.

[boodrow]

Pics only , hehehhehe. I take too many beer breaks to do it via video.
I will get started on it today.
Boodrow

[boodrow]

I have the pics , have to resize bout half of um , this windows 7 is a new learnin curve. Made a zebra wood stopper this afternoon whilst watchin big d get there arse whipped big time. The pics show how I do most every step , just goin to have to figure out how to post pics with a show and tell.
boodrow

[Doug B]

I've only done one Boodrow, but if you want any help, just give me a holler and we will eventually figure it out

[boodrow]

tried 3 times to post pics , image shack timed out , will try again later.
Boodrow

[sachbvn]

Sorry it's such a bear for ya Boodrow - hopefully we can get it going, it will be a great tutorial I'm sure!

Zac

[boodrow]

Ok here are the first 2 pics , seems thats all I can get it to host at once. These are very simple for those who havent ever turned one. Pic 1 is measurein the length, I mostly use 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 inches. Second pic is sitting it up on the miter saw. Doing this gives u square cuts on the ends so the wood mates the stopper flush.