wisardd1
WoW Member
Account Removed by own Request.
Posts: 261
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Post by wisardd1 on Dec 20, 2009 10:38:07 GMT -6
Any suggestions of the best method to use? They are inlaid into the clock and of course, I don't want to damage the wood they are set into.
dale
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 20, 2009 11:08:29 GMT -6
One quick way is to make a horseshoe-shaped router base. It'll attach to the router using the same three screws as the stock round plate uses, but will have one side open, between two screws. You adjust the bit's depth to NOT QUITE extend through the router base. With that, you can surround the piece you want to trim flush.
Works nicely for through tenons, too.
Or... for unpowered... a long paring chisel, bevel up, with the flat laid on the clock's surface, optionally buffered off that surface with a single layer of masking tape. Carefully pare WITH the grain so the chisel doesn't dive down into the clock.
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Post by Leo Voisine on Dec 20, 2009 12:20:42 GMT -6
Dale,
You did not indicate - what - you want to inlay. Shape, size, thickness.
One time I had an oval piece 1/16 thick. I brought it to Limeys house and he told me what to do.
I taped it to the surface I was going to inlay it into.
Next I used a REALLY sharp thin pointy knife to score the perimeter of the inlay into the face of the piece I was inlaying into.
First pass was light, then deeper and deeper for 2-3 passes
I had to re-tape as I went around - because I was cutting the tape.
I removed the inlay and the tape.
I routered the pocket just a TAD shallower than the inlay - by hand being really careful around the perimeter. Being short is far better than cutting too much. You can clean it up with a really sharp chisel and your really sharp knife.
DEFINITELY - do a dry run for fit - adjust as needed.
Next -- carefully -- cover the inside of the pocket with yellow glue like titebond II - use a brush and get a nice EVEN flat coat.
Place the inlay inside - LIGHTLY - tap as needed to get it into place.
Place wax paper over the area and put weights on top. I have a pile of bricks that I completely encased in duck tape that I use for weights.
Give it a complete day to completely set up.
Sand it all flush with a ROS with 220 paper - or whatever method you choose.
Sooo - if you like this - or if it works for you - say thank you to our late beloved Limey.
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Post by imahic on Dec 20, 2009 12:24:49 GMT -6
I think he means the pieces are already inlaid but standing proud of the surface and he is wanting to know how to trim them down level. At least that is the way I read it. Could be wrong for sure.
Mike
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wisardd1
WoW Member
Account Removed by own Request.
Posts: 261
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Post by wisardd1 on Dec 20, 2009 17:02:34 GMT -6
Yes the pieces were already set, but too proud! I cut them down close with the scroll saw and then flush trimmed on the router. I was unsure because then were out a bit far and I was afraid just flush trimming would cause too much tear out. I appreciate the help all!
dale
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rrich
WoW Member
Posts: 737
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Post by rrich on Dec 21, 2009 17:07:50 GMT -6
In some drawer pull that I made from Oak and a strip of ebony all I did was sand. Ebony sands very well but the black dust gets into the pores of the oak. I used paint thinner to float the ebony out of the pores and it looked great with just MAOF on the pulls.
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