Post by elizabeth on Dec 9, 2009 15:54:45 GMT -6
Dear Friends:
I finally finished Dad's puzzle box. I'm giving it to him tonight. A year and a half of pestering you to learn the skills, and seven months to actually make it. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks!
As to the specs: The outside and top are Brazilian Blood wood, the inner lid is Ambrosia Maple and the trays are Mahogany. I sanded to 350 and finished with four coats of Teak oil (couldn't find Tung) and two coats of wax buffed to a natural sheen. The box is 5" W X 5" H X 7.5" L.
The lid is grooved to sit on a rabbet:
I embedded a magnet in the Maple lid so it can be moved from it's locked position. This lid is rabbeted all the way around on it's underside and cut short on one end to allow for the sliding movement. It slides into grooves on the sides and into either the locking end or the opposite end. When locked, the other end is flush with the box end. I also embedded a magnet in the "key" piece and an opposing screw (which I covered with veneer) in the Maple lid. What this does is to keep moving that lid into the locked position unless the box is tipped on the "unlocked" end. The sliding lid locks and unlocks the "key" piece. (I hope I'm explaining properly)
The brass and pegs are to keep the box square. My joints are now so loose, and that darned Blood wood is STILL moving, that I had to do it.
This underside view shows you the Dovetail "Key" piece. It slides down after the Maple lid is unlocked.
The pegs are just dowels glued into beads. I stained and shellacked, leaving the flat side natural so Dad finds ease in sitting them into the brass hooks. The square "pawn" has an embedded magnet and is the little lock I made to move the sliding lid.
This is the Blue jay feather I encased in epoxy. Dad will find it when he is able to remove the maple lid. It is the "feather for my cap"
When he actually finishes figuring out how to remove the sides he will find the silver feather for his cap! The sides have stops built in that allow them to move only so much and in a particular direction. The sequence:
I hope you like it. You all helped me "birth" this baby. I'm pleased with the results though it is not flawless. I can't thank you all enough for helping me make this happen for Dad.
I finally finished Dad's puzzle box. I'm giving it to him tonight. A year and a half of pestering you to learn the skills, and seven months to actually make it. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks!
As to the specs: The outside and top are Brazilian Blood wood, the inner lid is Ambrosia Maple and the trays are Mahogany. I sanded to 350 and finished with four coats of Teak oil (couldn't find Tung) and two coats of wax buffed to a natural sheen. The box is 5" W X 5" H X 7.5" L.
The lid is grooved to sit on a rabbet:
I embedded a magnet in the Maple lid so it can be moved from it's locked position. This lid is rabbeted all the way around on it's underside and cut short on one end to allow for the sliding movement. It slides into grooves on the sides and into either the locking end or the opposite end. When locked, the other end is flush with the box end. I also embedded a magnet in the "key" piece and an opposing screw (which I covered with veneer) in the Maple lid. What this does is to keep moving that lid into the locked position unless the box is tipped on the "unlocked" end. The sliding lid locks and unlocks the "key" piece. (I hope I'm explaining properly)
The brass and pegs are to keep the box square. My joints are now so loose, and that darned Blood wood is STILL moving, that I had to do it.This underside view shows you the Dovetail "Key" piece. It slides down after the Maple lid is unlocked.
The pegs are just dowels glued into beads. I stained and shellacked, leaving the flat side natural so Dad finds ease in sitting them into the brass hooks. The square "pawn" has an embedded magnet and is the little lock I made to move the sliding lid.
This is the Blue jay feather I encased in epoxy. Dad will find it when he is able to remove the maple lid. It is the "feather for my cap"
When he actually finishes figuring out how to remove the sides he will find the silver feather for his cap! The sides have stops built in that allow them to move only so much and in a particular direction. The sequence:
- slide the right side back
- slide the end towards the right a bit (it cannot be removed at this point) to release the left slide
- slide the left side back
- slide the end towards the left till it stops (it allows room to remove the right side)
- slide the right side off
- slide the end toward the right to remove it
- slide the left side away from its stop to remove it
- slide the trays off each other.
I hope you like it. You all helped me "birth" this baby. I'm pleased with the results though it is not flawless. I can't thank you all enough for helping me make this happen for Dad.
and forgivable). I wanted all of you to be proud of what you helped me accomplish. It was way beyond my skill level, and it shows, but I had to do it. Maybe, with your continued support, I will learn to make it flawlessly. 