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Post by sdb777 on Dec 8, 2009 18:14:53 GMT -6
A friend of mine....Allan, has a small hobbies lathe that he uses to make stabilizers for bows. It is a variable speed 3/4hp, and will only handle stock up to 8" in lenght.....very small. I had him turn some stuff for me, but it didn't turn out the way I had hoped. (See picture-top set of sticks)  Not sure if you can see it or not, but the lathe didn't take the same amount of material off all the way around so that the copper tubing could slide on evenly, leaving a 'ridge of wood' on half and a void on the opposite half. The shooting sticks are still in the 'experimental stage', and I'm wanting to simplify it.... Which brings me to my question: Can a crooked piece of wood(bought that way-dowels, you know) be turned evenly by forcing the wood to the center of the head and then tightened in the chuck? Or is there a better method that I do not know(because I don't own a lathe yet)?? I understand the dowel would still be somewhat crooked, but at least the copper tubing would be even on the wood. Any suggestions? Scott (I need a lathe.......bad) B |
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admin
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Post by admin on Dec 8, 2009 18:22:33 GMT -6
Well, wood dowels are often a little bowed/bent, sometimes from the way they were made, other times from the way they were dried, and other times from the way they were put in the store shelf.
It can be forced straight, but if its bowed to begin with, you'll have fits getting it to turn without the bow. What you can do it get some thicker dowels and turn away the out of round bit, then it's guarenteed to be perfectly round, and can be very precisely sized to fit the need at hand.
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Post by fredbelknap on Dec 8, 2009 18:24:40 GMT -6
Looks like the blank wasn't centered on the headstock and tail. Blank may have been to small. I doubt that in 8" it would flex very much.
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Post by sdb777 on Dec 8, 2009 18:29:09 GMT -6
I though briefly about having him turn down a larger dowel to make it straight, but that would increase waste(I'm wanting to sell these to fund other projects).
Can't complain too much....the 5/8"x36" oak dowels only cost $0.85/each! What was I thinking.....
Scott (did I mention I need a lathe yet?) B
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Doug B
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Post by Doug B on Dec 8, 2009 19:23:34 GMT -6
I'm completely confused by what you are doing here Scott. The shooting sticks I have seen are much much bigger than 8" long. But I like the idea of what you are doing,,,just not sure what you need the lathe for in this case...
But I agree that you are badly in need of a lathe ;D
Seriously consider the Harbor Freight lathe - it is pretty versatile for the cost.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 8, 2009 19:48:08 GMT -6
That's definitely the result of turning wood that's started off too small & wasn't straight, OR there was too much tailstock pressure during PART of the turning, or the bodger botched it.
There must be enough wood to end up at the desired diameter after turning the blank round, and barely enough tailstock pressure to support the blank adequately, that tailstock pressure remaining constant throughout, and the skill to do a nice job.
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Post by sdb777 on Dec 8, 2009 20:14:08 GMT -6
I'm completely confused by what you are doing here Scott. The shooting sticks I have seen are much much bigger than 8" long. But I like the idea of what you are doing,,,just not sure what you need the lathe for in this case... I'm trying to reduce the size of the package.....freight is killing me! I'm trying to make a multi-section shooting stick that is taller then 35-3/4" in lenght, offering more adjustment. By segmenting the pieces and joining them with copper tubing(5/8" outside diameter and 5/8" oak dowel), I can send the 'new and improved' sticks to customers in a Priorty Mail package for less then half the cost. By all means, if you know a way that I'm not able to think of to turn the piece so that it'll fit into the copper tubing.....I'm all ears! The wall thickness on the tubing is approxiamtely .035" Scott (my mind is a blank slate-ask my teachers) B |
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Doug B
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Post by Doug B on Dec 8, 2009 20:21:04 GMT -6
Ah, now I understand Scott. Sectioned pieces connected with brass tubing should be definitely do-able with a decent lathe. I might even be tempted to shock cord it like those fiberglass tent poles. That would be pretty slick, and easy to use, and easy to ship. I think you are onto something there.
Yep, you just need your own lathe and a little experimenting and should be able to get it done. Good luck!
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Dec 9, 2009 17:22:56 GMT -6
Since the issue seems to be with what would have been at the end of the piece being turned, it was caused by the work not being centered on the head stock of tail stock like Fred mentioned above.
I have found that the center marker adapter for combination squares is often not quite accurate. As well, one needs to use something with them to make the actual mark that hugs tightly to the ruler. Starting with as small a diameter as you are, any little tiny bit of error in marking the center will show up blatantly in the piece.
I would start with 5/4 or maybe even 6/4 flat stock, ripped to the same width as the thickness and maybe leave a bit more meat on the final diameter of the stick. 5/8" seems a bit skimpy to me for supporting a long gun even when firing from a sitting position.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 9, 2009 17:58:58 GMT -6
I LIKE Doug's suggestion of shock cord.
I wanna' add another suggestion - Sorby makes a tenon sizing tool to be used with either a parting tool or a Bedan tool. I've got one, & it's not too bad... although it COULD be better. For this particular purpose, though, I'd suggest that you buy a cheap end wrench the same size as (or very slightly larger than) the desired diameter (the ID of the tubing).
On the open end of that wrench will be two lugs that grip the bolt/nut: One "toe" lug and one "heel" lug. The "toe" lug is the longer one.
Grind the HEEL lug back until it's one radius (one-half diameter) long, and sharpened so it can fit around the dowel & work as a self-regulating sizing tool. It'll cut aggressively, but it won't make the dowel smaller than its own nominal size. Size the wrench to be enough larger than your target diameter to accomodate sanding to finish... it may be 5/8" or 15mm or 16mm or something in that vicinity - I presume you're using couplings? Or actual hard-drawn tubing?
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