Make My Own...?

[triplefreak]

I'd like to make my own zero clearance insert for my tablesaw.
I have a 10" Craftsman table saw, that has a 3 3/4 X 14" insert.
Peachtree Woodworking sells one exactly for my saw, but can I make my own?
If so, what would I make it out of? It's only 1/8" thick. I don't have any way to resaw material, because I don't own a bandsaw yet.
Any suggestions?

[TDHofstetter]

The ideal (in my mind) material is phenolic. One can be made from aluminum, though, or polycarbonate or acrylic.

One way to git'er done is to cut a 1/8"-thick pane of acrylic to exactly match your existing insert, then cut two or three more that'll drop down the hole, then drill & tap & screw 'em all together into a stack. That gets you greater rigidity & strength.

Hey, wait. That sounds familiar. 3-3/4" x 14"? Is that a direct-drive saw, by any chance? Rectangular insert? If so... I've got one tucked under my shop's staircase. I could prob'ly make up a dandy router template for it. Come to think of it, I think I even have a ZC insert for it that I made from phenolic... got the thin rim & everything.

[triplefreak]

It's a belt drive saw, the insert is rectangular, with rounded corners.

[Joe Lyddon]

The 1/8" thickness would probably only be adhered to at the Contact points... If all the way around, a rabbet would work...

You could use 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" material w/o problems... I would think...

Shouldn't be very hard to do.

[Ruffnek]

Trip,

What I did on my Craftsman contractor saw was take a piece of 1/2" plywood and rip it to the width of the insert. Then, trace the curve of the ends on it, saw just outside the line and finish by sanding to the line.

Next, put a 1/2" straight bit in the router table and set the height to about 5/16". Cut a rabbet on the sides of your insert and then do the ends. The ends will need to be rabbeted a bit wider to clear the supports on the TS.

The insert will probably stand proud of the table. Keep going back to the router table and adjusting the bit depth to sneak up on a flush fit with the insert. Once you get the router bit depth set perfectly, I suggest you make several more inserts.

The easiest way to cut the saw kerf in the insert is to put a circular saw blade on your TS so that it will drop below the insert when it's in place. Now, move the fence over a portion of the insert (NOT WHERE THE BLADE EXITS) turn on the saw and crank the blade up through the insert.

A 1" hole drilled in the end will give a finger hold for removing the inserts and a finish nail stuck in the back end will keep it from raising up. If you want to use the screw on the front end, just drill a countersunk hole.

[triplefreak]

I think I'll make mine from UHMW plastic. Basically cutting boards. I found a place online I can buy enouh plastic to make 9 inserts for less than the price of 1 from Rockhead shipped.

[sawduster]

All of the UHMW plastic I've seen and handled might be a little flexy for a throat plate, especially when machined down to 1/8" thick around the edges. I thing you'd be better of building up Lexan and similar like Tim described.

I traced the throat plate for my saw using the original onto some ply, cut it out just outside the line using a bandsaw, (you could probably use a jig saw with fine teeth if you don't have a bandsaw) then used a flush cutting bit with the original TP double stick taped to the blank to match the size and shape of the original TP.

[Joe Lyddon]

I've seen where you can cut a small slit at the end so you can insert a Splitter...

[tomd]

I have a similar Craftsman saw and I used 1/8" baltic burch to make zero plates, used a flush cut router bit and just taped the original plate to the ply. You will need to glue a litte hold down finger at the bottom rear.

[lexrex]

Dec 14, 2009 1:57:03 GMT -6 tomd said:

I have a similar Craftsman saw and I used 1/8" baltic burch to make zero plates, used a flush cut router bit and just taped the original plate to the ply. You will need to glue a litte hold down finger at the bottom rear.

This is what I would do. Create a very good template and run off 3-4 until you need them again. It would make duplication very easy and quick!