Attaching top of dresser

[beagles]

This should be a far simpler question than staining cherry...

The figure below shows two alternatives for attaching the top of the dresser. In the second, the block is glued to the front rail with a slot to allow movement. I want the back to be fixed because someday there will likely be a mirror attached -- leaving no room for movement toward the back.

This dresser will spend time South Caroline and upstate NY. The wood will be cherry. How much movement should one expect... and given that, which way would you attach the top?

I also expect this piece to be lifted using that too convenient 2 inch overhang and need it to survive to be passed down to an unborn granddaughter somewhere beyond 2059.

Thanks.

[TDHofstetter]

The quick answer... NEITHER.

Those blocks (slotted or tongued) should be on the END WALLS (sides) of the dresser, not the front. That's assuming the top will be (as usual) oriented so that the grain runs left to right.

Wood will move very little lengthwise, so that's not usually taken into consideration. It'll move a long way across the grain, though, so we daren't try to restrain it by any means in that direction.

All that said... either of your shown approaches will work well. The second drawing is inherently stronger but a little problematic because the longish screws will often try to bend instead of sliding in their slots. The first isn't as strong because the tongue is a weak spot. The second helps keep the sides flat, too, so...

I'd go with #2... on the SIDES, not the FRONT.

[beagles]

Tim...

Thanks...

I also will have a center support going front to back, parallel to the sides, so I have the opportunity to also attach the top there in the manner you describe.

[Ruffnek]

Assuming a 4% MC change (about max for a climate controlled home) a 22" flat sawn Cherry top will move almost 1/4" (0.2183 in.)

Since you expect the dresser to be lifted by the overhang of the top, I'd use the tenoned wood clips all the way around. You will have to ensure that the groove is deep enough at the front rail to allow for the 1/4" of movement, similar to how you picture it in the first drawing.

[rrich]

Nov 28, 2009 16:04:46 GMT -6 Ruffnek said:

Assuming a 4% MC change (about max for a climate controlled home) a 22" flat sawn Cherry top will move almost 1/4" (0.2183 in.)

Since you expect the dresser to be lifted by the overhang of the top, I'd use the tenoned wood clips all the way around. You will have to ensure that the groove is deep enough at the front rail to allow for the 1/4" of movement, similar to how you picture it in the first drawing.

One minor little point. Secure the dresser top in the middle (F to B) so that the middle won't move. With an allowance for 1/4" of movement on both the front and back you should not have any problems.

[sawduster]

I use the top method (buttons) almost exclusively. For smaller tables I use 1/4" wide tongues, for larger ones I go to 3/8". On the sides, like Tim mentioned. Also insure the grain of the buttons is running the right way, with the tongues cut in the end grain. Also, if you want all of the movement to be to the front, you can glue or screw the back edge to the top rail in the back.