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Post by Jim Brown on Nov 27, 2009 9:47:28 GMT -6
Can I use PVC for a straight run of dryer vent? I'd use flexible metal for the hookup to the dryer itself, then drop it down through the floor to connect to the straight run to the wall.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 27, 2009 9:50:46 GMT -6
You can... but it won't last but a VERY VERY short while - like maybe one load. It'll soften below 200 degrees F, which means the high vent temperatures will soften it like crazy. In short, it'll droop & very possibly come loose. If it comes loose, you're in trouble.
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Post by Jim Brown on Nov 27, 2009 9:56:09 GMT -6
Ugh. Okay. Gas vent's my next choice. I want something solid and rigid, and I don't like screwing around with the snap together stuff very much.
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Post by CajunRider on Nov 28, 2009 5:31:52 GMT -6
Can I use PVC for a straight run of dryer vent? I'd use flexible metal for the hookup to the dryer itself, then drop it down through the floor to connect to the straight run to the wall. I had a 12 ft piece of PVC for an electric dryer vent for 16 yrs and it still looked good when I sold the house. |
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 28, 2009 9:57:46 GMT -6
For real? PVC or CPVC? The cross-linked stuff is, I'm told, good for higher temperatures than the ordinary PVC.
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Post by Ruffnek on Nov 28, 2009 10:23:22 GMT -6
PVC will work for a dryer vent, it's just not the ideal material. In fact, many new homes are constructed with PVC dryer vents in the slab.
The problem, especially with horizontal runs, is that the heat will l soften the PVC a bit and cause it to trap lint that would normally be blown out. They may require more frequent cleaning than metal vents, especially the first four or five feet that sees the highest heat.
In any installation other than in the ground/slab, it is best to use metal vent pipe.
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Post by CajunRider on Nov 28, 2009 21:06:14 GMT -6
For real? PVC or CPVC? The cross-linked stuff is, I'm told, good for higher temperatures than the ordinary PVC. Yeah. Coming out of the dryer I have a 1ft aluminum section crossing the wall. The rest is a 10 ft horizontal section and a couple elbows to get out. In 12 yrs I cleaned it once (just before I sold the house). |
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tomd
WoW Member
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Post by tomd on Dec 8, 2009 23:58:07 GMT -6
My experience has been you can use PVC, just not S&D, but use schedule 40.
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lexrex
Forum Management 
Posts: 822
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Post by lexrex on Dec 12, 2009 18:43:35 GMT -6
They used rigid metal in our new house. It's a long run to the side of the house too so they installed a booster fan to keep everything moving along well.
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Post by Jim Brown on Dec 13, 2009 8:42:06 GMT -6
Well, after all this I started finding stuff in the way that I just couldn't move, so I went with snap-together after all, with a couple gentle bends around pipes. Shortened the run from 20+ feet of vinyl firetrap to 9 feet of smooth-walled metal. I don't like the joints every two feet, but it will beat the old setup.
The dryer (came with the house) was pretty much plugged up ... scary!
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