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Post by Leo Voisine on Nov 22, 2009 18:44:33 GMT -6
Yep, there's a label all right. I don't have my compressor here right now, or a bicycle pump for that matter, but I'll figure something out. My first house had a much smaller tank, and I replaced it once. I remember pumping it up, but I didn't understand what it was for. Thanks, guys, for the education! I'll report back when the problem's solved. You might not need to pump air into it. Just drain it and recycle it should be enough. If the bladder inside in still in good condition, the air charge will still be there. |
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 22, 2009 21:05:55 GMT -6
I think it's worth checking, no matter what... it's practically instant. Once in a while those Schrader valves leak a little. Slowly, but like some tires sometimes leak down slowly over years 'cause of a tiny seepage past the valve core.
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Post by woodmannie on Nov 23, 2009 6:16:32 GMT -6
Definatly check the tank preasure. I've seen them loose air over long period. It doesn't take a huge drop in preasure to make a difference.
If ya have a valve the seperate the house from the preasure tank, usually a ball valve right above the drain valve, just turn that off. This keeps ya from draining your house system while ya work on the feed line. It'll keep ya from blowing valves in the camode too. Always turn that valve open slowly so you don't "ram" the water through the piping.
=Tom
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Nov 23, 2009 8:58:13 GMT -6
WOW!! Ain't this place amazin?!!
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Post by fredbelknap on Nov 23, 2009 11:19:43 GMT -6
Be sure that the air pressure you put in the tank is less than the low setting on the pressure control switch. If it is higher the pump won't come on.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 23, 2009 13:02:32 GMT -6
Be sure that the air pressure you put in the tank is less than the low setting on the pressure control switch. If it is higher the pump won't come on. It'll still turn on... these tanks have a bladder inside 'em so the pressurized air doesn't come out into the plumbing. If the tank's pressure is higher than the pressure switch's turn-on pressure, the system will just act like there's no tank when the pressure gets down next to the turn-on pressure... so the pressure will slowly fall as water gets used, then suddenly drop the last few psi to the turn-on pressure, where it'll suddenly rise a few psi to match tank pressure again, then rise slowly the rest of the way up. |
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Post by Jim Brown on Nov 27, 2009 7:50:02 GMT -6
Happy Thanksgiving everybody! I got on this on Wednesday, and ... after draining it, the pressure in the tank was appropriately set at 28 for a 30-50 switch, but the pressure gauge that was in there was bottomed out at 10, not 0 ... meaning that the pump wasn't coming on until the pressure was at zero. I changed the gauge and the switch, and all seems to be working well: no noticeable drops in pressure, even on the 2nd floor.
Bonus: the ice maker, which needs 40 psi, is now making ice, so I can tell my wife I fixed the fridge also!
Thanks for all of the help. The problem seems to be dirty water--plenty of rusty crud in the brass tube leading to the pressure switch. I'm considering adding a whole house filter in the future.
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Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 28, 2009 22:51:06 GMT -6
Hey! Very good on the Double Whammy! ... now, she thinks you're a Refrigerator Ice Maker expert TOO! ;D ;D  Glad it turned out OK! |
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