epoxy glue

[art3427]

I'm still gluing shingles on my bird houses with hot glue and getting burned more than enough. I'm thinking about trying some epoxy. What I need to know is just how thoroughly the stuff has to be mixed to get a bond. I'd like to be able to put part "A" on one piece and part "B" on the other and just mash the 2 parts together as I lay the shingle in place. Would this give an acceptable bond, Or does it need to be stirred more vigorously to achieve a lasting bond?

art

[deathwish]

I'd say give it a try and test. My fear would be that the part 'A' would soak into one, and the 'B' into another part, meaning the 'mixed portion' would not be soaked into either part.

Perhaps a thick CA would do the trick for you? Contact cement?

[TDHofstetter]

It really needs a thorough mixing - otherwise, only the tiny "interface" between the two epoxy components will bond, you'll get a tiny skin of hardened epoxy in the middle, and gooey crap on both the roof and the shingles... which'll fall off.

They call for two minutes of vigorous stirring. I've tried shortcutting that time with small batches, and every time (even fifteen seconds less) I've wound up with uncured epoxy.

I like Mark's thought of contact cement! You can spread a little on both surfaces, wait for it to skin over, then set shingles pretty much at your leisure. You get exactly ONE SHOT at setting each shingle in the right place, though - that stuff is CRAZY grabby.

[cabinetman]

Epoxy has to be thoroughly mixed. Contact cement is not intended for outdoor use. It will loosen with heat.

I would use a glue that intended for outside use, like UF or phenol-formaldehyde glue. Using that glue you could set all your shingles at once. IOW you would have more working time. For that matter TBIII would work.

[Leo Voisine]

You can in fact get outdoor marine epoxy. I have used some that states that it will adher and set up even underwater. But - yes - normally epoxy is not rated for outdoor use.

Have you considered titebond III or Gorilla Glue?

[TDHofstetter]

That may be a very good point about the heat - it IS unvulcanized rubber, after all, about the same thing as old-style chewing gum.

[wisardd1]

tightbond III dries quickly, If you put it on thin enough the pieces should should hold. Liquid nails is another option, again very thin coat. Or the helll with it, use super glue (a little dab will do ya!) Anyone remember that commerical?

[JBark]

I thought I would throw in mention of the cost. The fancier you get with a glue the more expensive it will get...not that you use that much on shingles but I always got the feeling here that people liked the cost to match the project??? Did that make sense?

[gomer]

If you decide to go w/ epoxy. The stirring should be done @ a regular pace. Too quickly and you will beat air into it and you got bubbles galore.

[Ruffnek]

Epoxy will work but the resin and hardener need to be mixed thoroughly before it will harden properly.

If you want a near instant bond, put thick CA on one surface and a shot of accellerator on the other surface. It will bond almost as soon as the surfaces are mated.

You could probably even use a clear silicone caulk.

[art3427]

Thanks for the input guys. Lots of info to consider. Here are some further points of consideration.

Except for the first row, the shingles do not lay flat on a surface. I typically "deck" the roof with 1/4 plywood. I lay out the rows and glue the shingles on one at a time. They are approx. 1/16 X 3/4 X 1.0 - tiny. The bottom of second row laps over the first about 1/8." Only the top edge is in full contact with the decking. There is a hollow spot under each shingle. I lay a line of hot glue at the top for full adhesion along the edge then a big 'glop' that I actually shoot under the previous shingle to fill the void and provide adhesion along the sides where the shingles touch. This 'glop' also extends the full length of the top of the lower shingle. My goal is to have each shingle fully glued along all 4 edges.

Actually, hot glue works pretty well except for burned fingers. Some comments have raised questions about hot glue turning loose in cold weather if the structures remain outside.

TB glues etc. dry too slow for this. Contacts are not intended for exterior use. I just received a shipment of E-Z Bond CA's. The order turn around was fantastic!!!! I'm going to experiment with the "instant thick CA" and the "rubber toughened" also. I also bought the accelerator - and of course the Debonder for my fingers.

Any further comments are welcomed. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

art

[TDHofstetter]

Too bad acrylic caulk takes so long to cure... that'd work very well otherwise. Construction adhesive takes only a short time, but it gives ya long stringies that're sticky as HECK and can't be cleaned up reasonably.

[rrich]

I saw this thread yesterday. After some thought...

If it were me, I would use construction adhesive. Ya know the stuff in tubes.

[art3427]

I saw a 20 guage staple gun on HF for about $20.00. 1/2" crown X 1/4" long. For the money I think I'm gonna' give it a try. This way I can use TB3 and really simplify the whole project if it works.

art