Question

[dburkhart]

For all the finishing experts which I am far from being.After you put a oil finish on a project,Do you put a paste wax or any other substance on it to protect it,or is it fine as is.This is a chair so it will be sat on.The oil finish is danish oil.

[elizabeth]

Hi! I normally do put wax on after oiling, and then buff it. It gives a nice sheen and is warm to the touch. Wax will close the pores and will need to be re-applied periodically. But, if you want to continue oiling the chair, don't wax it. Over time, the chair will look even more beautiful with the continued oiling, than if you just wax it. Sort-of like a gun stock. We oil the entire weapon after use and put it away. The stocks have never had polly, shellac or wax, and the oldest guns are the most beautiful.

But I am no expert. All I know so far is what I've learned on the forum.

BTW: I just posted a question on waxing after oiling!

[dburkhart]

wow a woman that knows guns and woodworking.I hope your married and he knows what a special lady he has

[TDHofstetter]

Oh, he can't HELP but know!

'Lizabeth... I had no clue that you were firearms-oriented, TOO... how cool is THAT?

I'm gonna' rebut just a bit, though - Danish oil (Watco in particular, if that's the Danish we're talking about) isn't bad about needing replenishing after the fact, after it's built up to a smooth surface. It's got some interesting resins in it, one of which is Gilsonite... and it builds to something between a hardening oil and a semi-film finish. It takes several applications to get it there, but once it's there it's there.

I don't like wax (carnauba or any other) on a chair. It shows fingerprints like NOBODY's business, and may make the chair too slick for comfort.

[dburkhart]

Thanks Tim it is watco, I have two coats on now how many do you suggest?

[TDHofstetter]

Depends on the wood & the depth of the application. Apply it until the surface smooths out & the grain lines (as seen in light reflected off the surface) pretty much disappear. After two applications, the surface should already feel & look smoother when you look at light reflected off it; I wouldn't imagine it'd take very many more applications before you're where you want to be. Another two, maybe, or three.

Depends on your sanding, too. If it's softwood or coarse-grained hardwood, sanded to 150 or 220, it'll take more than if it's dense tight-grained hardwood. MDF's "edge grain" seems to drink the stuff FOREVER until it's stopped being thirsty. Rock maple, in my experience, only seems to want about two or three applications before it's done as done.

[dburkhart]

Thanks Tim,I posted it in finished flat work with one coat.I have two on now alot darker but I think atleast it could use one more.Sanded up to 320 then abralon

[elizabeth]

BTW: I don't want to give the wrong impression. I come from generations of hunters, both men and women, but I am not one with them. Raised with guns and enjoy the shoots. At age ten I wounded a creature I could not find, and heard him go off in the woods crying. That was the end of my shooting. I trained retrievers, and field trialed them, to prevent that from happening again. I participated in my family's sport by working the dogs. I made sure all birds were recovered, and I combed the fields and swamps for wounded ones. My dogs obliged. Any creature found, I put out of its misery. Also, I soon learned as a teenager that you don't out-shoot a date.

There is a rule with us. You don't kill what you won't eat. We love game and I can really cook it!

[sawduster]

You don't kill what you won't eat.

Well, if you were a Cajun, then you could kill darn near anything.

[elizabeth]

True. That's why they spice everything so much... so you don't taste road kill! ;D