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Post by dicklaxt on May 18, 2010 13:13:22 GMT -6
,,,,,,,,,,in my case the kitchen stove in particular.
I need a recipe or an over the counter product that will easily remove the residue it leaves on kitchen cabinets,ceiling,wood work etc.That stuff is a beotch to get off.
The normal kitchen cleaning products and extra strength degreasers won't get it with out 3 or 4 applications and attempts.
dick
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Post by triplefreak on May 18, 2010 13:39:25 GMT -6
I use Simple Green. Or Greased Lightning. Both work great for removing grease. If it grease on the stove itself, use the Easy-Off in the Yellow can, & make sure you open the windows when you use it.
It contains lye.
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Post by dicklaxt on May 18, 2010 15:04:18 GMT -6
This is not grease ,it is a residue from the burning gas itself.I have tried Simple Green it will hardly touch this residue in less than 3 tries on a hard porcelain surface. My big problem is on stained and finished wood kitchen cabinets and high (height wise) painted wood trim on doors etc.
dick
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rrich
WoW Member
Posts: 737
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Post by rrich on May 18, 2010 16:11:00 GMT -6
Dick,
What kind of gas are you burning?
Almost all of my life we used natural gas. Never had a problem with deposits from the burning of the gas.
Even when I was a kid in Brooklyn, the gas company supplied Hydrogen mixed with Carbon Monoxide. Made by putting water onto hot coal/coke. We never had combustion products on the walls.
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Post by dicklaxt on May 18, 2010 16:55:39 GMT -6
I don't have a clue it comes in via an UG black pipe from the gas meter and I pay the local energy company so much a month for it,simple as that.
dick
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Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on May 18, 2010 17:46:50 GMT -6
We get a light greasy-like film... it IS very hard to get off! On the stove, I have used a little Steam cleaner & paper towels... It works great... I tried it on some cupboard doors... it worked there too... but I had to be very careful not to get it too hot!  |
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Post by TDHofstetter on May 18, 2010 18:59:28 GMT -6
Dickens, go to the auto parts place. Find a big jug of "Gojo Original Formula" (accept NO substitutes) hand cleaner. It MUST BE the ORIGINAL FORMULA, in the RED label - can't be the orange label stuff, can't be the pumice stuff, gotta' be the RED original formula stuff.
That's the stuff I learned to use, trying every other stuff on the market. It's "waterless", which means it's totally food-safe (you can eat without rinsing it off your hands). It's also stunningly effective at removing dang near anything except your skin. You don't need gloves to use the stuff; it's got lanolin & lecithin in it to keep your skin moisturized. It'll take freakin' roofing tar right off, trust me - been there. It'll dissolve anything organic that ya ever wanted to dissolve.
EDIT: There IS a TRICK to using it, though... USE NO WATER AT FIRST. That's important. Rub it in, maybe use a little brushing. Get it good & scrubbed in, THEN add just a little water - enough to make it runny. Now scrub just a little more... and like magic the stuff ya want off is off. NOW you can rinse if ya like... or ya can just wipe up with paper towels.
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Post by dicklaxt on May 18, 2010 19:12:23 GMT -6
Will it work on stained and finished wood?I see merit in a cleanup of residue on a painted enamel,formica and porcelain but the wood cabinets bother me.
dick
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Post by TDHofstetter on May 18, 2010 19:16:27 GMT -6
Should be fine, long's the finish is still intact. It won't hurt cured paint, won't hurt formica, nothing'll hurt porcelain. Long's the wood's shellac or varnish or what-have-you still has integrity, it should be fine - GoJo O.F. shouldn't hurt it 'cause it's fully cured.
Just to be insured, it wouldn't hurt to "try a small amount in an inconspicuous spot".
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