Turning tools

[bch47]

While waiting for my lathe to arrive, I've been looking at turning tools. Do you pen and stopper turners use full size or micro tools?
Also, if I get to turning bowls, will I need the large size tools for that project? Trying to keep from buying a bunch of different sized tools. I know you can make small things with big tools, but does that include pen making? Is it worth buying individual tools or the sets. Big question is what tools do you use for pens and stoppers?

[sdb777]

Full size.....only way to turn!
Pretty much just use the 1/2" gouge and the small skew.
Micro......might be good for midgets?





Scott (got the HSS set) B

[sachbvn]

I bought this set from Grizzly and have been happy. You'll want a couple different kinds of gouges, a scraper (round nose) and a parting tool..... you can buy them in a group - or separate.

I spent like 55 bucks on mine..... it was a six piece set I think.

You do not need small tools for pen work - in fact I'd recommend full sized tools while you learn. Honestly - I'd only use micro tools for ultra fine work - OTHER than pens.... I don't care to put anything so elaborate in a pen that requires a micro tool.

Get full sized tools - it'll be easier to learn how to hold them and what not.


Good luck - welcome to the vortex!!


Zac

[Ruffnek]

Brian,

When I first got my lathe, I bought the HF 8-piece turning tool set for, I think, $50. I've re-ground the profiles on some of the tools but I'm still using all of them. They are HSS, full size and have been worth many times what I paid for them. I absolutely recommend them as a starter set, and more.

For bowl turning, you will need a bowl gouge...no substitutes. My first one was a 1/2" Sorby and cost ~$80. There are cheaper versions which are probably the way to go until you find the grind that you like and become proficient at sharpening. The Benjamin's Best tools from PSI are a very affordable brand.

You will also need a way to sharpen said tools. An 8" slow-speed grinder with a white or pink wheel...60 to 120 grit...is the easiest method, used with a Wolverine sharpening jig or one of the clones. You can even make your own.

There were two things that helped me make a quantum leap in my turning. One was the Bill Grumbine video "Turning Bowls Made Easy" and the other was the Wolverine sharpening jig. Everything after that was the basic learn-while-you-turn curve.

[admin]

I bought the 'mini' tools with my lathe. Complete waste of money. Go for full size tools, and you won't regret it. With the tiny tools, it's so easy to slip and nick up your surface with them. The full size tools spread the cut over a bigger area for a better pre-sand finish.

[TDHofstetter]

I do own three mini tools... but I have yet to find a place where I want to use 'em. Full-size costs you nothing at the bench. The only place I think full-sized tools may hurt ya is in extremely compact packaging... like if you're hitchhiking cross-country with a minilathe on your back.

[bch47]

Thanks for all the answers. Looks like full size and definately HSS. Bought one gouge when I ordered the lathe. Pen turner working there said that is all he used for pens. Benjamin Best brand. I will look at the HF tools.

[Doug B]

Another vote for full size tools.

And if a penturner is telling you that all he uses is a spindle gouge, then he is also using lots of sandpaper or not getting very good pens A skew is a penmakers best friend, but you have to tame it first. Definitely worth the effort it takes if you want to make nice pens.

[sachbvn]

I use a roughing gouge for nearly the whole pen, until it gets too tight, then I use what would probably be considered a screwed up bowl gouge..... it works


Zac

[admin]

May 16, 2010 23:14:02 GMT -6 Doug B said:

Another vote for full size tools.

And if a penturner is telling you that all he uses is a spindle gouge, then he is also using lots of sandpaper or not getting very good pens A skew is a penmakers best friend, but you have to tame it first. Definitely worth the effort it takes if you want to make nice pens.

I don't know duddle about pen turning, but I do know there's one little thing about the tools; You can get the gouges sharp easily, but that's nothing like the level of sharpness the skew needs. I keep both mine sharp enough to shave. I strop mine as well, as it seems every little bit helps. Also, while my gouges and scrapers are left to fend for themselves below the bed of my lathe, I keep both skews well separate to keep the edges from getting dinged up.

In my admittedly limited experience with the skew, the sharpness of the edge directly relates to pre-sanding surface finish. With a gentle hand, decent RPM, and a really sharp skew, you can skip the 220 and 320 and move right into 400 grit and higher into MM without much issue. Woods like cherry, I don't even bother with sandpaper on spindlework, just move right into the coarse MM and then work the shine.