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Post by Ruffnek on May 14, 2010 12:04:07 GMT -6
As part of my backyard beautification project, I cleaned up and organized my stash of turning stock that I keep underneath the playhouse I built for my girls a few years back (that they never played in). I think I'm going to convert it to a photo studio for my turnings and small stuff. That way I can leave everything set up. Anyway, among the slabs and rounds that I had stacked in there were some River Birch logs around 4' - 5' long that I had kept to saw into lumber and I decided to do that today. After cutting off the checked and moldy ends I ended up with four logs anywhere from 7" to 9" in diameter and 38" long. I sawed them on the bandsaw and ended up with 16 boards, 5" - 7" wide, 1 1/16" thick and 38" long. With some spalting and the naturally pretty color of the River Birch heart wood, it's some nice looking stuff. Even though the logs were over a year old, they were still plenty wet inside. I'll sticker the boards on my lumber rack inside the shop and a year or so from now, they will be ready to work. I think I'd like to use part of the lumber for the door panels on a Krenov-inspired cabinet on stand.
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Post by dcarter636 on May 14, 2010 12:23:44 GMT -6
Now those are some interesting looking sticks; I've never seen calico lumber before. ;D
Is that lumber something common that I've just never seen or is it something rare?
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Post by Ruffnek on May 14, 2010 12:29:20 GMT -6
It's very common around here. It grows along all the creek bottoms and low areas. I got the logs for this from a storm-downed tree about a quarter mile down the road from my house.
M&G Sawmill in Huntsville, TX will occassionally have some for sale but it's not spalted like mine. Unspalted, it looks a lot like Soft Maple.
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Post by sdb777 on May 14, 2010 19:09:10 GMT -6
And you just have this 'stuff' 'laying around your yard'.... I think I need to get the trailer hooked up and just drive around in Tyler until I see some downed logs.....now I just have to convience the wife! Some good looking lumber, very unique. Should have a lot of spalting by the time you go to use it. Scott (I need a drool wipe for the 'puter) B
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Post by Ruffnek on May 14, 2010 19:20:47 GMT -6
Scott, I've found that trees are everywhere for the asking. I saw that this particular tree had blown over and asked the homeowner if I could cut some up. They were more than happy to have me remove it and I gave them each a pen/pencil set as thanks. They were happy, I was happy.
I'm always on the lookout for turning stock and it isn't hard to find. Also, once word gets around that you want it, you will get a lot of offers of free wood.
FWIW, I've never bought a turning blank or a pen blank. There's just too much locally available stuff for free. All it takes is a watchful eye and the will to do a little work.
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Post by Leo Voisine on May 16, 2010 5:36:34 GMT -6
Very impressive.
I like the notion that you harvested your own wood.
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Post by RiverWalker on May 16, 2010 8:51:42 GMT -6
Scott, I've found that trees are everywhere for the asking. I saw that this particular tree had blown over and asked the homeowner if I could cut some up. They were more than happy to have me remove it and I gave them each a pen/pencil set as thanks. They were happy, I was happy. I'm making a note in my head to have and properly learn to use a chainsaw and such before the next big ice storm.... it sounds like with a little trial error, that could get to be a very nice way to get things done.
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Post by Ruffnek on May 16, 2010 10:11:37 GMT -6
Scott, I've found that trees are everywhere for the asking. I saw that this particular tree had blown over and asked the homeowner if I could cut some up. They were more than happy to have me remove it and I gave them each a pen/pencil set as thanks. They were happy, I was happy. I'm making a note in my head to have and properly learn to use a chainsaw and such before the next big ice storm.... it sounds like with a little trial error, that could get to be a very nice way to get things done. Let me recommend the Stihl MS 250C with an 18" bar. I had a Husquvarna 55 Rancher w/ 20" bar and it was a great saw...a little hard to start cold but plenty of power and cut well. Unfortunately my wayward son used it and had it inside his pickup at a beer party. Evidently one of his "buddies" decided they needed the saw more than I and it disappeared. When I got around to replacing it, I had decided on the Stihl Farm Boss because I had heard so many good things about it. However, when I got to the dealer and began looking at the other models, I decided on the 250. The 250 is 45cc, 3.0 hp (the Farm Boss is 3.8 hp). It's Stihl's top-of-the-line occassional use saw and it had some features I really liked: - Soft start...you don't jerk on the starting rope, simply pull it out slowly until the engine fires (couple pulls) then go to half choke and a pull or two more and it starts running. No major exertion required.
- Toolless chain adjustment...a chainsaw chain continually loosens as you use the saw. On all my other saws it took a wrench to loosen two nuts holding the bar in place and a screwdriver to extend the bar, taking up the slack in the chain. On the 250, you flip up an integral handle, loosen it about 1/2 turn and roll a dial to adjust the bar and tighten the chain. Re-tighten the handle and flip it down into place. Takes about 30 seconds.
- The normal featurres on good saws...blade brake, continuous oiler, toolless chain oil and fuel caps, sprocket tip on bar...
Whatever brand/type saw you get, I'd also recommend getting it from a chainsaw dealer versus a box store. The dealer's rep will be able to explain all the features, usage and maintenance. They will also be able to do any repairs needed or just sharpen the chain as needed (I'd also recommend a minimum of two chains so that a sharp one can be kept ready). I'm not gonna get into the safety aspects of using a chain saw. They are obviously to be respected and I assume you feel capable of safely using one with some instruction.
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Post by mapleman on May 18, 2010 10:07:30 GMT -6
Hey Cody, You sawed these babies out on the big Grizz bandsaw, right? Could you show a pic of your setup? I have been thinking of doing some small log processing on my saw (smaller - G0555) but the stability has been my main question and sticking point.
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Post by Ruffnek on May 18, 2010 11:35:51 GMT -6
Hey Cody, You sawed these babies out on the big Grizz bandsaw, right? Could you show a pic of your setup? I have been thinking of doing some small log processing on my saw (smaller - G0555) but the stability has been my main question and sticking point. John, I sawed them on the Grizzly 17" GO513 band saw. My set-up was simply the saw and one roller stand. (I'm in Houston so I can't show pics of either) Seriously, there was no set-up to speak of. The logs were 38" long and I placed the roller stand about two feet away from the bandsaw to hold up the end as I finished the cut. I would place the log on the saw table and find the flattest side...the place where it didn't want to roll. Then I would slab off one side of the log just cutting by eye. Once I had that one flat side, the other three cuts to get a rectangular cant were easy. Once I had the log slabbed on four sides, I'd joint three sides with the jointer set at 1/8" depth of cut. (8" jointer) For cutting the planks, I'd measure over 1 1/16" from the edge and pop a chalk line to follow when making the cut. After every cut, I would again joint the freshly cut edge to keep it straight, measure 1 1/16", pop another chalk line and repeat. After sawing out the final plank, if the leftover piece was a bit thicker than the 1 1/16" I wanted, I would run it through the planer to dimension it instead of trying to balance the narrow piece on edge. If it was smaller than 1 1/16" at either end, it went into the discard pile. Now... You may not feel comfortable slabbing the logs with no additional support. They CAN roll when bandsawing the slab and it would ruin the bandsaw blade if that happened. What I have done in the past is make an L-shaped carrier from two pieces of 3/4" plywood that is the length of the logs and the vertical leg just a bit shorter than the diameter of the biggest log. Lay the log on the carrier and securre it in place with a couple of screws through the vertical leg (upright part of the "Ell.") The part that the log is resting on should be narrower than the log by a couple of inches. Now you can run the log through the blade by sliding the carrier across the table and the log cannot roll. Once you get that one side flat, you can remove the log from the carrier and continue as I did in the above procedure. WOOD magazine (I think) has plans for a shop-built adjustable carrier for sawing logs on the bandsaw. You can check them out. Hope this helps.
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Post by Ruffnek on May 18, 2010 18:12:36 GMT -6
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Post by mapleman on May 19, 2010 9:34:30 GMT -6
Cody, thanks very much for the info and the link. as always, you are a great help. I have been thinking of making ane xtension for the BS so that there is some real support along the length of longer stock. but right now, i have no room to even move in the shop. maybe i should make the BS flip 90*. that would be easy!!!! thanks code, but remember - that Kenyan village is worse off for it
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Post by Ruffnek on May 19, 2010 9:47:21 GMT -6
You are welcome, John.
After doing a little research on BS sleds, I think that I will build one when I get back home, along with removable infeed and outfeed supoorts. I want to be able to more easily saw up to 48" long logs. That's long enough for probably 95% of all furniture projects.
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Post by sdb777 on May 20, 2010 5:27:27 GMT -6
You are welcome, John. After doing a little research on BS sleds, I think that I will build one when I get back home, along with removable infeed and outfeed supoorts. I want to be able to more easily saw up to 48" long logs. That's long enough for probably 95% of all furniture projects. Be interested in what you come up with....hope some photos and a tutorial on the build will be coming too? Scott (might be something I would make as an excuse for buying a BS) B
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