rhull
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Post by rhull on Apr 30, 2010 8:39:32 GMT -6
How many coats of brush-on poly do you folks use for heavy surface-use furniture? Our kitchen table sees a lot of use (and some abuse from the little guy). I'm just trying to figure out diminishing returns for the number of coats I should put on the tabletop.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Apr 30, 2010 8:52:51 GMT -6
I'm gonna' say no less than three, and probably no more than about six.
I like to apply it with a wad of women's pantyhose.
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Post by Ruffnek on Apr 30, 2010 9:57:06 GMT -6
I would say three should be plenty. If you don't thin the poly, you will get a fairly thick coat when brushing it on. Three should be plenty.
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Apr 30, 2010 11:37:02 GMT -6
How many coats of brush-on poly do you folks use for heavy surface-use furniture? Our kitchen table sees a lot of use (and some abuse from the little guy). I'm just trying to figure out diminishing returns for the number of coats I should put on the tabletop. I liked this way: www.woodworkstuff.net/EpoxyPour1.html |
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Post by TDHofstetter on Apr 30, 2010 11:43:15 GMT -6
I tried something like that once... it may've just been me, or the way I was working with it, but I had an awful time with it drooling off the edges & running underneath all the way around. VERY DIFFICULT to sand it back to flat afterwards, too. Were I to do it again, I'd try scraping the underside, edge-to-center, with a (disposable) skewed card scraper or old credit card, while the goo is still in the "middling" stage - before it sets up hard. |
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rhull
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Post by rhull on Apr 30, 2010 12:48:50 GMT -6
I thought about something like that but it seems like it's too easy to have a problem, and too difficult/time-consuming to recover from such a problem. |
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Apr 30, 2010 19:22:53 GMT -6
I would mix a small batch of it up and pour it over some Trivets or something... ... just enough to get the Hang of it... And be sure I mixed in the same proportions for the main project. My sister used to do a lot of that type of thing... never had any real problems... ... some things are so easy, we make them difficult...   ;D |
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Post by cabinetman on May 1, 2010 2:32:33 GMT -6
I tried something like that once... it may've just been me, or the way I was working with it, but I had an awful time with it drooling off the edges & running underneath all the way around. VERY DIFFICULT to sand it back to flat afterwards, too. Were I to do it again, I'd try scraping the underside, edge-to-center, with a (disposable) skewed card scraper or old credit card, while the goo is still in the "middling" stage - before it sets up hard. The two part epoxy application is fairly easy to use following the instructions. I've used it on commercial bar tops, restaurant tabletops, and in residential applications. One application will likely be all that is needed for a tough finish. It's best to pour from the middle out, and from a low position to the top. Once the material pours out so all the edges get covered, use a propane/mapp torch above the material to bring any bubbles to the surface. I've also used a straight acetylene setup. The tip of the flame should be clear of the material, and moved about vigorously. I wouldn't recommend a heat gun, as the forced air could move the epoxy. The trick with the edges and the overflow is to brush a thin coat on the edge before the pour. Then, when poured, the overflow meets a wet edge and will move uniformly and freely.. If the overflow hits a dry edge, it will catch on some areas and not others and will develop thick and thin ridges that will be very noticeable. For what gathers underneath, wait until the material "kicks" to a soft gell state. If it's too fluid more epoxy may drip. If too hard it may pull material from the edge. Using a rigid scraper of some sort (I use a scrap piece of 1/16" mica), and do a circular motion. Start with the edge flat to the bottom, and make small circular movements bringing out the scraper's edge past the overflow, and onto the bottom. Doing it this way will leave a fairly clean bottom and a well defined drip edge. That edge when dry will need easing as it may be very sharp. |
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rhull
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Post by rhull on May 1, 2010 10:09:56 GMT -6
Thanks for the details and suggestions. This time, I think, I'll stick with polyurethane. In large part because I'm already 3 1/2 coats into it. |
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Post by cabinetman on May 1, 2010 11:28:28 GMT -6
Thanks for the details and suggestions. This time, I think, I'll stick with polyurethane. In large part because I'm already 3 1/2 coats into it. I agree with you to stick with polyurethane. You only asked how many coats to use, not for any alternatives. It wasn't stated you had already applied polyurethane. |
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on May 1, 2010 14:02:21 GMT -6
Thanks for the details and suggestions. This time, I think, I'll stick with polyurethane. In large part because I'm already 3 1/2 coats into it. By all means, just keep on a going with the Poly... |
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Post by dcarter636 on May 1, 2010 16:21:04 GMT -6
I'm trying to figure out how to apply 1/ 2 coat of polyurethane.  |
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rhull
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Post by rhull on May 1, 2010 16:58:34 GMT -6
I'm trying to figure out how to apply 1/ 2 coat of polyurethane. Do the top, dry Flip, do the bottom, dry Flip, do the top, dry Flip, do the bottom, dry Flip, do the top, dry Flip, do the bottom, dry Flip, do the top 3 1/2. ;D |
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Post by Ruffnek on May 1, 2010 18:41:43 GMT -6
How many coats did you decide to apply?
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rhull
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Post by rhull on May 1, 2010 20:34:27 GMT -6
I'll let you know when I'm done. Today ended up primarily as a gardening day, since the weather was so nice. |
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;D
