markf
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Post by markf on Apr 26, 2010 7:28:02 GMT -6
I have to cut three of these for the bar I'm making, 2 at 17" and one at 37". How would you cut the 10 degreee cut? I have right tilt table saw, band saw, jointer and the typical other power and hand tools. Mark F
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Post by cabinetman on Apr 26, 2010 7:59:10 GMT -6
I would set the fence to the left of the blade, set the angle of the blade, and use featherboards and a push stick.
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Post by Ruffnek on Apr 26, 2010 8:14:45 GMT -6
What Cab said except use a push shoe..something that will also provide downward pressure. Be sure and push the stock completely past the blade in one smooth motion when making the cut.
The drop off piece will just lie there. It's the piece between the fence and the blade that must be controlled until it is clear of the blade.
It's a fairly routine cut but maybe more routine on a left-tilt saw.
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Post by dcarter636 on Apr 26, 2010 8:38:24 GMT -6
I've had better luck cutting stuff like that on the band saw than with running against the wrong side of the table saw fence.
Maybe other table saw fences are good for .002" on both sides but mine is aligned on one side and the other side isn't sufficiently parallel to the blade.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Apr 26, 2010 9:10:19 GMT -6
If you use the table saw... fence to the LEFT or fence to the RIGHT will depend upon whether your saw is left-tilt or right-tilt. You want the fence on the side of the blade that won't trap the workpiece between the blade & fence.
Ideally, it'd be ripped off a much wider workpiece, keeping the "waste" (not this piece, but the remainder) between the blade & fence, this piece (the offcut) remaining on the far side of the blade from the fence, blade tilted away from the fence.
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Post by Leo Voisine on Apr 26, 2010 10:03:36 GMT -6
I would use the table saw too - but to add a little. It can be done on the jointer - or it can be cleaned up after the table saw/band saw - on the jointer.
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Post by Ruffnek on Apr 26, 2010 10:23:07 GMT -6
Yep, table saw, band saw, jointer...just whatever feels the most comfortable. It's a simple 10 degree rip cut. I'm pretty sure I could have safely executed all three cuts in the time it took me to post about it.
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rrich
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Post by rrich on Apr 26, 2010 11:05:15 GMT -6
What Cody said.
Just remember that PUSH STICKS ARE INTENDED TO BE CUT on a table saw.
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Post by brburns on Apr 26, 2010 11:33:39 GMT -6
Table saw. Yep.
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markf
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Post by markf on Apr 26, 2010 11:42:45 GMT -6
Ok, that's how I'll do it. Fence on the left, blade tilted right. That was my initial thought, but I made a cut similar to this once before and there seemed to be a tendancy for the board to want to lift, so I thought there might be a better way. I'll be sure to have more downward pressure with the push sticks. Thanks.
Mark F
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Post by TDHofstetter on Apr 26, 2010 12:04:59 GMT -6
Also remember... if you happen to lay a short sacrificial 2x4 directly on top of the stock being cut, there's nothing bad about it. You can push down on the 2x4 with direct hand pressure (provided your blade isn't raised more than 1-1/2") and the blade CANNOT get you... and it'll hold the work down all the way through the cut.
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rrich
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Post by rrich on Apr 26, 2010 16:04:06 GMT -6
A safer way?
Cut the stock, to size. Cut a strip of scrap 7/32" wide and about 1/8" thick. This strip should be as wide as your router table.
Put a tall straight bit in the router and adjust the height of the cutting part of the bit to 1-1/4". Attach the 7/32" strip to the router table with double side tape and against the fence. Attach a second 7/32" strip to the out feed part of the fence so that the cut part of the stock rides on the strip after going through the bit.
Make a cut by riding the stock against the fence and the 7/32" strip attached to the table. You're feeding the stock through at an angle so push sticks are mandatory. It is better to chew up push sticks than fingers.
After posting the above I had another thought.
This might be a great time to purchase a plane and descend into the finer aspects of the Neanderthal realm of woodworking.
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Joe Lyddon
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Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Apr 26, 2010 17:34:16 GMT -6
Rich's way is very unique to the router... a good way to do it. I would be more comfortable using the band saw... then just cleaning it up using the sander... I'd clamp a control board across the sander table (to hold at the right angle) and just push it through the sander.
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markf
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Post by markf on Apr 27, 2010 9:17:41 GMT -6
Rich, That is the idea that was bouncing around in my head, but I couldn't quite put the details together. I have some hand planes also and thought about that, but creating some kind of shooting board seemed like it would be more work than just making the cut on the TS.
Lots of ways to skin this cat
Mark F
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rrich
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Post by rrich on Apr 29, 2010 23:50:02 GMT -6
The really funny thing is that if I was doing the cut, it would be on my right tilt Unisaw. I KNOW that I'll be cutting through the push stick and prepare for it.
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rrich
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Post by rrich on Apr 29, 2010 23:52:04 GMT -6
Use double side tape to hold the 7/32" strip to the stock. Then about a zillion passes through a planer.
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