Design Opinions

[Safetyboy]

My sister asked me to build her a table for their sitting room - she wanted open shelves on one side (for display of photos & such) and drawers on the other side. We measured rough dimensions at her house the other day, and this is what I came up with so far (rough idea):



I'm submitting it to the group for comments - let me know if you like it or not, what you'd change, if it looks too hard to build, traps I might run into building it - whatever.

[Beamer]

I like it .. what kinda material were ya thinkin' of using? If you do all solid wood including the shelves, top and sides, you'll be okay for wood movement. If you use plywood for all those parts, you'll have to hide edges, but you'll still be okay for wood movement.

If you mix the two, though, you'll have to think it through a little more to make sure things hold together okay.


I think it's a solid design and I have no doubt you'd make a great one

[Leo Voisine]

I think for a rough idea it looks great. Proportionally is looks appealing, and that is the first step.

There are some minor details that you will want to work out, like joinery and such, but I am sure you will work that all in very nicely.

[Ruffnek]

Jason and Leo already touched on the things I would be concerned about.

• The shelves probably would work better being plywood...but you will need to hide the edges. That isn't a problem.
  
  
• Proportion is everything in furniture making and even in the sketch, you have the proportions pretty well nailed.
  
  
• Maybe it's the sketch but I see the drawer fronts being inset. That's a bit more precision work than overlay drawer fronts.
  
  
• Consider an inside taper on the legs below the bottom rail.
  

That's about all I can come up with right away but give me time. I'll see if I can nit-pick some more.

[sawduster]

I like it. The proportion between the shelves and the drawers looks great. I agree with Cody that a little bit of inside taper on the legs below the cross piece would be great. Now you just gotta work out the mechanics and a little foo foo decor to go with what she has. Edge dressing for the top and the like.

[cabinetman]

I agree with the others that the proportion looks good. I would use plywood on the two sides of the drawer box for sure. Depending on the look you want, consider a plywood back on the shelf and drawer box (use vertical grain). If it's less than 4' wide use one piece. That will help square the piece.

I would use a plywood top edged with solid wood. You could use a number of profiles available with router bits. The edging used could be a different species than the top, which may add a bit of character.

Going along with the visual aspect, consider a plywood end on the left side of the shelf unit. Those plywood ends (if intended to be installed on square stock standing wood corners, could be stopped dadoed in. Having the plywood sides flush with the square legs would make drawer installation work easier.

An alternative to the open look with the four legs, the plywood ends could finish at the floor. If that's an option, then consider a recessed toe kick across the front, like an apron. That will help in keeping any sag out of the span. Enclosing the bottom like that may not appeal to you, as it may detract from the open look you suggested with your drawing.

[cabinetman]

Apr 25, 2010 11:42:38 GMT -6 cabinetman said:

Those plywood ends (if intended to be installed on square stock standing wood corners, could be stopped dadoed in.

Couldn't find a way to modify or edit the post, but that sentence should read: Those plywood ends (if intended to be installed on square stock standing wood corners), could be stopped rabbeted in.

[Safetyboy]

Thanks for all the input so far. To clarify a couple questions:

(1) I was planing on using solid wood all the way through - if it works out, from a maple that fell recently on their property (and by the way, how long does it typically take to kiln dry lumber???)

(2) The drawers will almost certainly be inset (I just like that clean, refined look).

Seems like I passed the concept phase . Now I gotta work on how the joinery will hold it all together. Stay tuned!

[Beamer]

The answer to your drying time question depends HEAVILY on the kiln ... the only way to get in the ballpark is to ask the kiln operator. You don't wanna have it dry too fast or it'll case harden on ya and honeycomb all to Helen Bach.