best oil to use?

[elizabeth]

Hi, guys. Kick question.

Which is the most suitable oil to use with Brazilian Blood wood?

Thanks,

[TDHofstetter]

Although I don't ordinarily like to use it... Bloodwood (Muninga) seems to like tung oil. It's slower-hardening than boiled linseed oil, but it does the job eventually.

Now... don't confuse it with "tung oil finish", which doesn't usually contain ANY tung oil at all - be sure to use real 100% tung oil (it'll say so if that's what it is).

That's my ope, anyway - whether right or wrong.

[dcarter636]

I suppose I'm just contrary but I find that BLO intensifies and darkens blood wood to a truer bloody hue.
If I could find the wretched cable for the camera I'd post a pic of some bloodwood inlay that was BLO'd.

[elizabeth]

Thanks, Tim

I have, on hand, both Teak and BLO but no Tung. Since I have to run errands today, I'll pick up the Tung oil.

I don't want to put an oil that will change the color of the Wood by yellowing. Both Teak and BLO will yellow.

What I think I should do on the twisted boards is to sand both sides to 220 (I had only tooled the inside when the twisting occurred) and apply the oil only on the inside. What I'm hoping to do is like what you suggested with water. As the outside dries without oil, and the inside is sealed with the first coat, I'm hoping that the wood will pull itself back into plane. If this is the case I can then finish tooling the slides. All I have left to do on them is a groove for the inner sliding lid and a dado for the top pull-off lid. While the various coats of oil cure I can work on the rest of the box. I'm just loathe to have to hit the ends with the lock-miter bit again. It'll ruin the look.

Let me know if any of this makes sense.
Thanks!!!!

[elizabeth]

Nov 9, 2009 12:10:06 GMT -6 dcarter636 said:

I suppose I'm just contrary but I find that BLO intensifies and darkens blood wood to a truer bloody hue.
If I could find the wretched cable for the camera I'd post a pic of some bloodwood inlay that was BLO'd.

Dave: Thank you. You posted just as I was framing my reply. Pics would really be helpful.

[sachbvn]

Tung Oil will be thick.... not runny at all...at least the stuff I have is real thick - kinda like syrup almost. Well...maybe a bit thinner.


Zac

[dcarter636]

Here are pics of blood wood inlay in a cherry box, all finished with BLO and home brewed oil base wipe on polyurethane. This box, that stores about ten decks of playing cards, was made 4 or 5 years ago; the cherry has darkened nicely but I think the blood wood was more redder when fresh. Both red inlays came from the same flitch, the heart has seen more sunlight.

[elizabeth]

It's beautiful!!!! The inlays are perfect. I haven't tried my hand at that yet but can't wait to do so. What did you use for the top inlay. Also, can I get a peek at the inside?

Thanks so much for your input and effort.

[dcarter636]

Kind words are always appreciated here. I know where the warts are and now you will too.

The inside is as plain as it can be. Note the glue dribbles from attaching the top panel prior to sawing the lid off.



The top panel is 1/4" thick cherry set onto rebated ledges; soft maple strings surround the panel for a visual border. The box was initially constructed without a top and then the rebated area was cut blind on a router table fixtured with a continuous fence and travel stops. The panel and stringing are simply glued into the rebate. Our seasonal humidity change is nil at 5000 feet elevation so floating panel construction is unnecessary for such a small box.



The making of this box solidified my resolve to master hand tools. A widely marketed corner chisel fixture was used to remove the rounded corners of the rebate (spinning router bits only make round inside corners) and make a tidy square corner for the stringing. However the corner chisel isn't all that sharp and when you smack it with a hammer it tends to bruise the surrounding wood fibers. The dark blotch to the left of the stringing is bruised cross cut fibers that became besotted with oil. Properly sharpened bench chisels don't do that.

[Ruffnek]

The dark blotch to the left of the stringing is bruised cross cut fibers that became besotted with oil.

Man, you are PICKY! I would never have noticed that if you hadn't pointed it out.

BTW, nice box.

[Joe Lyddon]

Yes Dave,

You are really too hard on yourself...

... couldn't you just bleach it out a bit or something else to get it absolutely PERFECT?

Kidding... I think it looks GREAT just the way it is... ;D

[Doug B]

I like that box a lot too Dave. Elizabeth is right - you really nailed the heart and diamond inlays!

[Gecko]

Nice card box. Looks like you nailed those inlays just perfect. I understand about the stringing. It sucks when the miter line shows up like that. Most people won't notice it, but I really bugs me when it happens on my boxes. Shows up worse on the lighter woods too.

[dcarter636]

Funny about that mitered corner, normal folks look at the stringing say nice border and move on, we look at it and immediately know which piece was cut last. Much like they see dovetails and say ooh and aah, our eyes are drawn to the chipped corner of one pin. It's the curse of the experience.

I must confess that the heart, diamond, spade, and club inlays were made with a router and inlay collar set. Minimal credit is due to my skill other than many many attempts at laying out and cutting of the templates.

Apologies to Elizabeth for high jacking your thread.

[Gecko]

Nov 13, 2009 21:51:03 GMT -6 dcarter636 said:

Funny about that mitered corner, normal folks look at the stringing say nice border and move on, we look at it and immediately know which piece was cut last. Much like they see dovetails and say ooh and aah, our eyes are drawn to the chipped corner of one pin. It's the curse of the experience.

I must confess that the heart, diamond, spade, and club inlays were made with a router and inlay collar set. Minimal credit is due to my skill other than many many attempts at laying out and cutting of the templates.

Apologies to Elizabeth for high jacking your thread.

Experience is why I like to have my work critiqued by wood workers. They see the areas that could have been better. Problem is, most issues can't be seen in pictures.
I figures the inlay was done by inlay kit. However, it is making the template that is the skill. If the inlay looks good, then credit is due as the template was made well. Also, fitting the inlay can sometimes cause small gaps that need to be filled. At least I have that issue. An "experienced" wood worker will see that. Yours look like they were dead on tight.
My apologies to Elizabeth as well.

[elizabeth]

Hey guys. No problem. I enjoy the conversation. The box is gorgeous.