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Post by sdb777 on Mar 25, 2010 5:46:29 GMT -6
Was given a table saw by a friend....enough said.
The saw runs, and will cut. But it's just one of those benchtop models'(not big). It was also stored for quite some time in a outside shed that was sealed to well from the elements(didn't get rained on or anything). I replaced the blade with a 88 tooth for better finishing.
Here's what I need help with:
#1: The top plate is 'sticky'(there's nothing really on it, but wood doesn't slide all that great), how do I clean it up? Will I need to 'sand it' with something? And once it's slick/smooth, what is needed on the top to keep it that way?
#2: The fence, doesn't lock down all that well. And I'm not sure exactly how to tune it up? Do I just tighten the nut a little and try it again, or is there a 'set method' that needs to be applied?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Scott (free stuff is great when it works right) B
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Post by sachbvn on Mar 25, 2010 6:29:00 GMT -6
Scott, a picture might help.
I'm going to field the first question - others can help on the second.
Is the top rusty? Does it have a film on it - or it just doesn't allow wood to slide across it easily? A couple things - any rust, you'll want to get rid of it, and yes you can sand it..... You kind of want to avoid anything with silicon in it such as WD40 because it can discolor/stain wood. A product you can purchase is called T-9 Boeshield, woodcraft, rockler, etc... carry it - I've seen it at Sears before, but they may have quit carrying it - not sure about Home Depot but I'm pretty sure Menards does not carry it. The other thing you can do, and probably already have, is wax the heck out of it. I use Johnson's Paste wax.... I used an electric buffer just because it gets such a smoother coat with less work, but you can apply by hand no problem. Let it get hazy and then buff buff buff it off. It should help regardless of the top, but it does wonders for Cast Iron. Oh - the Boeshield you can either spray on and wipe off, or spray on real heavy, even it out and then just let it dry with a light film - you can leave the film on, no need to buff it off. Also - T-9 is supposed to NOT allow sawdust to stick in it - so spraying the trunions and stuff with it under the saw vs. WD40 means less gunk to clean up next year when you go through your saw with the scrub brushes!
Zac
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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 25, 2010 7:36:28 GMT -6
Scott is the top aluminum or ferrous metal like steel or cast iron? It would help if you supplied a little information like brand. The fence may just need adjusting. If you can't get it to hold just clamp a straight edge on the top and junk the fence.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Mar 25, 2010 9:31:04 GMT -6
If the top's either iron or aluminum, you can buff it up with steel wool - up to #0000 - and then wax the Shinola out of it. That helps a lot. Needs to be repeated (usually just the waxing) periodically, though. You could also spray it with lacquer if you like, although that too is likely to want a repeat at some point. Waxing's easier... but WATCH the WAX; car wax very often contains silicone, which is poisonous to your woodworking. If you use a car wax, read the can VERY THOROUGHLY to be sure it uses language like "100% carnauba". Floor wax, Bowling Alley Wax, Johnson's, Briwax... those are fine.
The fence... I think we're gonna' need to see that.
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Post by sdb777 on Mar 26, 2010 15:06:35 GMT -6
Just thought I'd give an update.
The top of the table saw is metal, and cleaned up really well with some steel wool! Slick as all get out now. Didn't have any carnauba wax laying around, so I covered it up until I can get to town tomorrow(wife has the truck, and the dang Jeep is too tall and bounces enough to make my back scream). Or maybe I can convince her that she really wants some Chinese Buffet tonight(some reason that sounds really good?), and then I can swing by the store.
The fence will have to do for now, at least until I can get back to work. Nothing really wrong with it, but it's very hard to get the thing 'set', and still be straight. Just going to use it to turn some round cedar into 3/4x3/4x5-1/2 blanks, so it really doesn't need to be 'perfect'.....but I'd like it close!
Thanks for all the info!
Scott (I sure needed it) B
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Joe Lyddon
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Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Mar 26, 2010 18:31:16 GMT -6
Johnson's Paste Wax is probably the easiest to buy...
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Post by imahic on Mar 27, 2010 10:27:11 GMT -6
+1 on the Johnson's past wax. A little dab will do ya!....oh, wait, that was Brylcreem wasn't it?...lol. It doesn't take a whole lot and does a pretty good job. It's also easy to find.
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lexrex
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Posts: 822
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Post by lexrex on Apr 15, 2010 20:17:55 GMT -6
You can always use a straight edge or board with a straight edge as a makeshift fence for something more accurate. How about a saw model number or pic of the fence?
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