End Grain to End Grain

[rrich]

You know how it goes, should have cut 5-7/8 but actually cut 4-7/8. Ah yes, 7/8" right next to 5 so therefore..... Oh bat poop!

The material was white oak, 2-1/8 by 1/4. So now what to do.

Well I cut a 1" piece from the scrap and glued it to the longer piece. I used TB-III on the end grain. Wrapped the piece in wax paper and clamped the whole mess between two small pieces of Melamine. Then clamped the two pieces together (eg to eg) with a lot of pressure. Finally the clamp on the Melamine sandwich was tightened very securely.

Today, I took the piece out of clamps and put some bending pressure on the glue joint. Not a lot force but enough to determine that the joint is holding reasonably well. The piece is not a structural element so it will last.

I don't mean to be a walking advertisement but every time that I use TB-III in an unusual application it performs beyond my expectations.

[dcarter636]

It's good stuff, just about all I use now.

[Doug B]

I really like TB III also. I especially like the brown color which is almost always preferable to the yellow or clear of other glues. The glue lines are usually a lot less noticeable with the brown glue.

And, I actually conducted a test with TB III glue on a butt joint one time. End grain to end grain glue up. I was amazed that I could not break the joint by hand. The pieces were over 12" long 3/4 stock each so I had pretty good leverage but could not break the glue bond by hand. I was impressed, so I clamped one end in the bench vice and gave the other end a sharp rap with a mallet and it popped apart with just that sharp rap. Well, OK it will not hold up to that, but, in certain situations it is certainly capable of working well enough on a butt joint.

[wisardd1]

It's pretty much all I use, unless I have a complicated glue up that I know I need more time to clamp. For instance, 36 square spindles on a 62 inch wide head board where it all has to be glued, leveled, squared, and fitted top, bottom and in between! Then I need the extra time of the yellow glue. I love the 25 minute clamp time on the III as it deals with my impatience to take the clamps off.

[Joe Lyddon]

That's good to know...

[Ruffnek]

TBIII is the about only PVA glue I use. It's more expensive than the rest but being type 3 waterproof, I can use it just about anywhere. Occassionally, if I want a fast tack, I'll use TB Original.

Also, end-grain glue-ups are a lot stronger than they are generally given credit for being. The problem with them isn't so much strength but that wood movement will eventually cause them to fail and when they do so, it is total and complete failure.

Glad to hear about the work-a-round.

[art3427]

Next time do a 45 degree scarf joint instead of a simple butt joint. It increases the glue area. I often do the same thing you did when running molding in a house and the length required exceeds the supply. I will glue up longer than needed, clamp similar to what you did and let dry. Sand as required before final cut and installation.

art

[mapleman]

i did that once - last spring. cut my custom-made door trim 3/4" to short (forgot to account for the partial miter joint increasing the length of the vertical piece... DOH!
so i glued on 3/4" ont he bottom. used TBIII ---- no failure so far. same application as well - no structure needed. just sit and look good

good on ya
john

[dburkhart]

i only use titebond cut two equal angles and the bond will give you better support