Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 7, 2009 17:22:01 GMT -6
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admin
Forum Management
Posts: 1,149
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Post by admin on Nov 7, 2009 17:34:10 GMT -6
I've been plunking around with the idea of putting an edge on my ol' junky dull TS blades. I'll give it a look when I get time.
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Post by fredbelknap on Nov 7, 2009 17:42:21 GMT -6
Most circular saw blades are carbide tiped. The cost of getting something that will sharpen carbide isn't worth it. Just toss them and get a new one.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 7, 2009 17:45:07 GMT -6
It can be - provided, for carbide-tipped teeth, you sharpen with either silicon-carbide or diamond. You can't use aluminum oxide or any form of steel, 'cause the carbide will just scratch it to death. Another option, one Leo has yet to try (he owns one of these) looks just like this: www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96687Sometimes they're on sale a bunch cheaper, too...
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Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 7, 2009 18:17:11 GMT -6
That's good to know... about what kind of files to use... Cool blade sharpener too... sure is reasonable!! Thank you, Tim!
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sawduster
Moderator
The Motley Crew
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Post by sawduster on Nov 7, 2009 18:37:34 GMT -6
Tooth geometry is quite complex, especially with carbide teeth and without something to get the sharpening angles just right, you likely will not be happy with the results. Recently read an article where-in another very big thing in getting the best performance out of a resharpened circular saw blade is the fineness of the finest abrasive used.
If you have blades that are worthy of being resharpened, then the cost to have them done professionally is worth the savings of the price of a new good quality blade.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 10, 2009 8:47:03 GMT -6
I was outside, smokin' an' thinkin'... and there's one thing I should point out here.
When you use a powered diamond wheel to sharpen carbide (router bits, sawblades, what have you)... it's really important to NEVER EVER let the diamonds touch steel. Really. They should only touch the carbide... so if your cutters' carbide is flush with steel, send the cutter out to be sharpened or discard it.
Reason? Diamond, at high grinding temperatures, DISSOLVES IN IRON. It's referred to as "erosion".
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sawduster
Moderator
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Nov 10, 2009 10:27:29 GMT -6
I was outside, smokin' an' thinkin'... and there's one thing I should point out here. When you use a powered diamond wheel to sharpen carbide (router bits, sawblades, what have you)... it's really important to NEVER EVER let the diamonds touch steel. Really. They should only touch the carbide... so if your cutters' carbide is flush with steel, send the cutter out to be sharpened or discard it. Reason? Diamond, at high grinding temperatures, DISSOLVES IN IRON. It's referred to as "erosion". Learn something new here every day. I just never imagined that diamonds would dissolve.
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Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 10, 2009 11:40:13 GMT -6
... and according to Marilyn Monroe...
Diamonds are Forever!
... and a women's best friend! ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Leo Voisine on Nov 11, 2009 11:15:11 GMT -6
It can be - provided, for carbide-tipped teeth, you sharpen with either silicon-carbide or diamond. You can't use aluminum oxide or any form of steel, 'cause the carbide will just scratch it to death. Another option, one Leo has yet to try (he owns one of these) looks just like this: www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96687Sometimes they're on sale a bunch cheaper, too... Geez Tim - yer like an elephant - certainly not in stature - but in memory. Ya know - I have not even cut the seal on the box yet. After it gets cold out, and I am off of the yard work I will be in the shop - and I just might give that a try. It's 51 out today - kinda like summah ya know. I'm gunna enjoy dis as long as possible fer now
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 11, 2009 11:35:57 GMT -6
I kinda' figured you hadn't popped the box open yet. I'll bet it'll take some stiffening before you're satisfied with its rigidity... but I can think of nobody better to do that stiffening. Blade support, indexing arm, possibly the motor - the motor may be rigid enough, though.
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Post by triplefreak on Nov 30, 2009 7:39:03 GMT -6
I think it's Freud that will recondition & sharpen a carbide blade for $20 or so. Might be cheaper to buy a new one.
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