Tearing out paneling

[Jim Brown]

The house I moved in to has a lot of issues. We're getting ready to redo the kitchen, which has cheap paneling that has been painted over. It has to go. Pulling some nails revealed that there is drywall under the paneling ... that's good. UNfortunately, the paneling has been glued up with construction adhesive, and the drywall seems to hung the wrong way (paper side out).

I'm kind of at a loss. I'd like to get the walls clear enough to paper, at least, but I don't know how to get the adhesive off without extensive damage. I also don't know whether the paper will adhere well enough to the bassackwards drywall.

BTW I've hung a little drywall, but the results were not of professional quality.

I'd love your thoughts on this, folks! Thanks,

Jim

[TDHofstetter]

That sounds like a really good place to skin over the existing drywall with another layer of new 3/8" drywall. You get the benefit of both layers (better fire protection and flatter walls) at the cost of time putting that room together. Construction adhesive is just TOO much PITA to be worth the vexation.

Your windowsills may need some tweaking, and your jambs may need small extensions, though. Because of that, you may find it worth your while to rip out all the 'rock & expose the insulation... which may turn into yet ANOTHER project, if it's not done very well.

Me, I'd rip it out. Been there, three times now in different houses.

[Beamer]

Drywall i'd rip out - plaster i'd leave. My house is nearly all plaster over this funky drywall lookin' stuff with 1/2" holes pecked around - too far apart to be lath, but close enough to leave no square foot unpoked. Weird stuff. And a BEAR to tear out.

If you can do it, cut yourself an access hole to do a core sample of what's really in that wall. Then you can decide if it's just easier to rip it out and start fresh or to skin over it with something else. There is also 1/4" drywall - i did that with our spare bedroom when i discovered windows and doors behind paneling - they even tacked on a crapload of spacer to go OVER the trim work which was pretty much left intact for decades. Pulling that plaster stuff is a BEAR - at almost 2" thick, i didn't wanna deal with it so i slapped up some 1/4" drywall and had me some nice smooth surface for paint

[TDHofstetter]

Boy, FLIMSY stuff, ain't it?

[Beamer]

Sure is - but it sticks real good with a couple screws

[meangene]

I'd pull it out also. If it is backward or if you pull major paper of with the paneling you'll NEVER get it straight and flat. If your taping and finishing skills lack, hang the board and find someone to finish it. In this economy you can find someone to give you a deal. To shortcut, you can always put crown molding up and avoid taping the ceiling seam. Good Luck!

[Jim Brown]

Good advice ... we picked around at it and discovered that some of the walls are paneling in which the grooves have been mudded, and then wallpapered over. I think we're probably going to paper over it and see what happens. Maybe I'll post some photos so y'all can tell me you told me so In the living room we'll end up replacing the paneling and backward drywall with new drywall though.

There's been a revolving door in this house ... lots of people living here for three years or so at a stretch. It's definitely in need of some TLC! Thanks for the advice!

[autobodyman]

when my mother decided to remove the paneling in their house it too had panel adheasive stuck to the 1/2" sheetrock, we didn't even try to get the glue off, just skim coated over all the walls. Took us 15 gallons of mud (main floor, diningroom, livingroom and hallways) but not to much sanding we got one of those 48" float trowels. Dad and brother used smaller trowels to put the mud on and I came behing them with the 48 incher, two coats with just some light sanding with a pole screen sander. Had a sheetrock guy come in and sprayed a light wipe down texture on the walls, it looked great.

~Mike

[TDHofstetter]

Used it like a screed, did ya?

[mduren]

When in doubt...Do it right. You will never be as happy with a shortcut as you would be with a good job. It is always easier to do it right the first time than to do the job twice.

Marv

[Jim Brown]

Generally I agree with you ... this issue is complicated by the fact that we're unlikely to be in this house for more than three years, so with every improvement we decide to make we need to think about whether we're likely to get our money out of it ... or whether we can stand to live with the place's many shortcomings!

[Leo Voisine]

If your likely to be moving our in a few years, then you want to make the place presentable to sell.

I wholeheartedly agree about doing it right, but.

In a case like this - the house suffers from the same advise I will give.

I think Tim's approach with a quick fix of 3/8 sheet rock is likely best. Even 1/2 over the existing rock is OK. As a matter of cost - you will find that rock is REALLY cheap.

If you don't have the skills to mud the walls - get a pro to do it. It'll save you a lot of heartache.

Next you will to do something with the door jams and window casings - them trim is all out.

When you think about repairing the jams and windows - it might be a wash with tearing out the old rock.

At any rate - trying to remove the glue from the walls is a bear. I have done it. Use a torch to soften it then scrape with a putty knife. FIRE - is dangerous stuff to work with. It can really mess up your day.

Just no easy way out there.

[larryh86gt]

Another way to go at it is just rip it off down to the studs and re-drywall it. If you are going to wallpaper it anyway you don't have to do the mudding perfectly. Wallpaper hides a lot. And it is a good time to add all those additional electrical outlets you usually want in the kitchen.