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Post by dicklaxt on Nov 7, 2009 8:25:29 GMT -6
I would bet the floors in a timber framed house are something to deal with when wanting a flat sub floor for laying down any type floor that comes in piece's,slats ,tiles etc.
If you or someone else solved that problem how did you do it,if not what are you going to do?
I had a similar problem in a stick house when the VA inspector shut things down until this was fixed in an upstairs bedroom,,,,what they did was dam the doorways and poured a self leveling lightweight construction concrete,,,it was so thin it ran like water but it sure was nice and flat,1/8 inch in spots up to 1 inch in others.It was more like gypsum but once dried it was closed in with tile so it couldn't breakup,worked out okay
dicker
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 7, 2009 8:45:58 GMT -6
In this case... this house's floors were originally double-planked with 1-by boards after the joists were leveled - apparently by guys with foot adzes. They're not any long way out - I'd be surprised to see 1/4" deviation across any one expanse of floor.
Then, sometime in about the 1950s, I figure, somebody came back & covered the planking with a layer of 5/8" OSB. That further helped to flatten the floors out... and that's what I'm covering with my 3/4" maple. I'm running it across the original boards, parallel with the joists, in most spots 'cause that's the room orientation. The deviation'll be most visible across the ends, where the mopboards meet the floor. I'm counting on scribing the mopboards to fit the floor - it's tedious work, but I've done it before with a spokeshave & a block plane and it works pretty decently.
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Post by dicklaxt on Nov 7, 2009 8:58:10 GMT -6
Have you considered laying the flooring on an angle,cut offs can be used as starters on the other half of the room ,they claim it makes a room look larger,don't quote me.'
dick
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 7, 2009 10:16:00 GMT -6
I thought about that... but after modeling it in SketchUp it just didn't look right. These upstairs bedrooms are already dang large, too... they're each just less than 12' wide & 22'6" long.
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Post by dicklaxt on Nov 7, 2009 12:34:13 GMT -6
22"-6" boy you could get a running start in that one ;D  |
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Nov 7, 2009 13:02:36 GMT -6
When they installed the wood floors in my house, they had the problem of the concrete slab not being completely flat. They used several bags of thin set in the low areas to bring everything up to reasonably flat.
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Post by Ruffnek on Nov 8, 2009 14:27:19 GMT -6
When they installed the wood floors in my house, they had the problem of the concrete slab not being completely flat. They used several bags of thin set in the low areas to bring everything up to reasonably flat. How did they attach the wood flooring to the concrete...adhesive? Karen has decided she wants wood floors in the carpeted bedrooms. Go figure, huh. |
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Stretch
WoW Member
Mark Muhr
Posts: 461
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Post by Stretch on Nov 8, 2009 20:16:14 GMT -6
You can get a latex based floor float to level floors. It's easier to use than thinset.
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sawduster
Moderator
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Nov 9, 2009 10:18:28 GMT -6
When they installed the wood floors in my house, they had the problem of the concrete slab not being completely flat. They used several bags of thin set in the low areas to bring everything up to reasonably flat. How did they attach the wood flooring to the concrete...adhesive? Karen has decided she wants wood floors in the carpeted bedrooms. Go figure, huh. The flooring we installed is like a plywood, 3/8" thick with the pecan veneer maybe 3/32 thick allowing for at least one sanding and refinishing. Most other "engineered" real wood flooring is 1/4" thick. For laying over concrete, they used a special flooring adhesive and a notched trowel to spread it. They make both an oil based and a water based adhesive. When I originally got the flooring I put in the home office, I bought the oil based adhesive through the flooring provider, but quickly switched over to the water based stuff available at the big box. Not nearly as messy and no where near the smell. Wood flooring outlasts carpet by a multiple of at least 4 times. Carpet just doesn't last like it used to when it was made of wool, the extra cost of wood flooring comes out in the long run, to say nothing of the added new furniture the ladies normally want when they change the color of the carpeting.  |
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Post by Ruffnek on Nov 9, 2009 17:12:40 GMT -6
Thanks for the info, Jerry. You want to come supervise the install when I get around to doing it? ;D
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Post by imahic on Nov 11, 2009 17:16:18 GMT -6
You might really come to enjoy those wood floors. One of the things we did when we built our house was to stamp and stain the concrete. No carpet at all in our house or in the mother in law's apartment in back. We both have really noticed a difference in the allergy problems we used to have when we had carpet.
Mike
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