New Dovetail Jig

[wisardd1]

After days and hours of not being able to get the results I wanted out of a Rockler Dovetail Jiggle, I went out and bought an Akeda 16 inch. Once I figure out how to use it I will post some pictures, but here is a link to see what it is I am talking about

www.akeda.com/dc16/jig.drawer-construction.html

By the way Jiggle was not a miss spelling.

[wisardd1]

Alright, after one day of trying to figure this thing out I have a couple of things to say. Now, you need to understand that I know very little about dovetails and unlike David Theil who had perfect success with it his first try (hmm, I have heard that before). He states that 'until this morning, I didn't even know what a tail or a pin was"

lumberjocks.com/reviews/831

Having bought the 16 inch model, a reducer, two proprietary router bits 7 degree and a 14, and a DC adaptor for $431 this is what I ended up with at the end my day, not first try. This one is the first try:



This one is the last one after 5 trys with adjusting the depth in an attempt to tighten the joint:



Not much improvement as you can see. I know that you are thinking, dude, just lower the bit further and that sucker will tighten righ up into dovetail heaven. NOT! At one point I went a quarter inch further and what I ended up with was tails that were sunken into the pins.

As I read further into the instructions, it looks like I need two more proprietary guide bushings. One undersized 7/16 and one oversized 1/16 by .004 in either direction to eliminate the slop. So far, with my $431 purchase I am not a happy camper. By days end this will no doubt cost me another $150 in proprietary bits bushings pins and tails and such that it does raise some doubts in me.

On the otherside, I really like this jig and am willing to spend a little more, talk to company support, and try to nail down my problems. It is a bullet proof piece of beauty and works very nice and securely, but just not accurate at this point. Now please take into consideration, I have only recently started trying to route dovetails and I had an utter failure with the Rockler jiggler too. Anyway, onward, and I will report any discoveries, awarenesses and opinions.

BTW, the router is a brand new fixed PC 1 3/4hp. I think the number is 1000, but I would have to check. Router plate is thus brand new with no warpage.

dale

[fredbelknap]

Dale I have been following your trials and wish I could help but don't think I can. I have the PC4212 and it makes through DT and box joints real good, but can't control the spacing. I did the half blinds to see how it worked but I liked the through DT the best so I haven't tried them again. I don't see any advantage to the half blind unless you are doing single piece drawer fronts. There may be other advantages I am overlooking. It's been a while since I have use it.

[wisardd1]

Thanks Fred. I was going to get the 4216 (comes with three templates, then I saw this). I haven't ruled it out. I just ran off two more sets, re-adjusted my router depth, checks the the plate, used a center pin somewhat and ended up with the same exact results. Lengthen the bit and ended up with proud tails. I am using a 3/4 front and 1/2 side, but that shouldn't matter. I will try 3/4 on both tomorrow, but I am beat tonight. I sent Kevan a link at Akeda, let's see if he jumps in. I know I'm not tawded, but I sure feel like. Thanks again Fred.

[wisardd1]

Good news. Kevan at Akeda took a look at the this thread and said he knows what exactly I am doing wrong and to call him tomorrow. I will let you all know how it turns out. Great Customer support so far

[Joe Lyddon]

Dale, from the picture, I couldn't tell if there were shadows or gaps or what.

Sounds like you're on the right track!

Looking forward to seeing some GOOD tight dovetails from you! ;D ;D

My first thought was a bit depth problem... then, I had second thoughts about the picture... shadows, gaps, etc.

[wisardd1]

Joe, definitley gaps! Apparently I am making some mistake and I am looking forward to Kevan's response. Thank you for your feedback

[TDHofstetter]

I suspect a combination of bushing size and possibly router bit angle. That angle is really pretty critical.

[wisardd1]

Ok, here is the feedback:

I need to switch the 7 degree bit to an 11 degree bit. If I want to use the 7 degree I have to use a 1 inch drawer face and lengthen the bit to 1 5/16 from 13/16. This unit uses 5 different bits determined by the thickness of the drawer face. Very nice guy, very helpful, and now I just need to go out and tet the 11 degree. I will keep you updated. Sidenote: Kevan told me that it might be the reason I was havong troubles with the Rockler. So, I will test both.

[TDHofstetter]

The Rockler jig wants a 14-degree dovetail bit... we should have caught that in the earlier pics.

EDIT: Correction: Depending upon which comb, it wants either an 8-degree or a 14-degree dovetail bit.

[wisardd1]

As a work around until I get the needed bit, I am going to set up the jib to cut a 1 inch drawer face with the 7 degree bit. Once I cut the pieces, and if they fit, I will then look at the possibility of thinning the already cut piece down down to .75 by table saw and planer. I think that will work, I will definitley know later tonight.

Hmm, on second thought, that won't work because the pins will be cut to deep to go to .75. Heck, I route the pieces anyway just to see how it works.

[TDHofstetter]

If you cut that deep... precut with a straight bit first. That'll take a lot of the load off the dovetail cutter, which will otherwise be pretty stressed with that much of a cut load.

[wisardd1]

will do

[wisardd1]

Ran a couple off last night and a couple more this morning. Not yet! Argh! But, I think I have the last issue pegged. In cutteing the tails I have been trying to avoid rounding them off and that it is keeping them from fully seating. Tonight I will round them off and hopefully, that will end this saga of the "Ever illusive Hidden Dovetail"
I also learned yesterday from talking to Kevan that you always use the face piece thickness as the determinate in which degree dovetail to use. I also found the 64 piece accessory kit on EBAY for $100 instead of the usual $300 Plus! The guy has about 100 kits if anyone else uses this jig! Just thought I would pass that on.

When at first you don't succeed, try, try, try, try.....
............................................again!

[wisardd1]

Bummer and discouragement. 1/16 tighter. I am alread out 3/16.

[wisardd1]

Should I go tighter?





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[Joe Lyddon]

LOOKING a lot BETTER...

You want a hand-snug fit...

Now, once you GET IT, be sure to save some setup blocks, etc. so you can replicate it easier! ;D ;D

[TDHofstetter]

Mar 10, 2010 13:30:07 GMT -6 wisardd1 said:

Should I go tighter?

Yep, just a bit. Not MUCH, though. What you're reaching for is dovetails you can push together by hand without clamps or a hammer, but ones that won't fall back apart when you assemble 'em dry. You want 'em snug.

Too tight & the glue joints will wipe themselves on assembly & starve out. Too loose & the glue has to bridge the gaps - something wood glues seldom do very well.

The snugger the joint, the better it looks when it's finished, too.

[wisardd1]

Almost, but no brass ring yet! I should have it nailed today. I am going to change out the router plate to a Jasper Acrylic and use pin stops to set the drawer face so it is flush to the pins the depth of the tails.

[Joe Lyddon]

You don't have to fiddle & fiddle to get them FLUSH!

Most will leave the Pins proud a little bit so they can be planed or sanded flush...
Makes for a beautiful clean joint. ;D ;D

You're getting better!

Looks like you want to nail down the Same Starting point on all faces...
...with a constant Stop Block or something.