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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 3, 2010 9:05:45 GMT -6
 I made this out of leftover scrap. First time I have tried this and would like some input on how to do bigger circles. I did these by gluing them up and then truing them up on the lathe with them mounted in a chuck. I'm not to wild about the shape but the segments turned out pretty well. This one is about 5" and would like to go to 12". Any ideas. |
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Post by sachbvn on Mar 3, 2010 13:43:30 GMT -6
Fred, that turned out really well. Poly finish??
Seriously - I remember when you first got your lathe.... you've done a lot since then!
Nice work.
I know nothing about segmented turning so I can't help there.
Zac
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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 3, 2010 15:08:12 GMT -6
Zac that is clear gloss poly, Minwax and it hasn't been buffed. I like to wait a few days before buffing. |
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Mar 3, 2010 16:30:17 GMT -6
Fred,
Not sure what your issue is with going larger, so I'll just touch a few bases and hope I hit the one you're looking for.
First off, for me 12 segment rings seem to work best, but that is not really here nor there. I picked up some of the largest hose clamps I could find at the big box. These are the ones with the metal belts with slots running across the width, so you can connect several together to make as large a "hoop" as you need. Check in the HVAC area for these. I use them as clamps to hold the rings together while the glue dries. If you stock is planed to the same thickness throughout the ring, you can set the ring on a flat surface with the clamps holding it snug, but not completely tight, then smack any of the segments that are higher than the others flat. I've even set large rings onto a piece of mdf, then set another piece of mdf on top and clamped them together to insure flatness.
Then you gotta be pretty careful gluing the rings together, alternating the seams of the rings and centering one on top of another, then clamp them up to let the glue set. I normally only do three or so rings onto the base which has been prepped by having a tenon to fit into the chuck, and then turning the base round. Once the glue is set, go ahead and turn the inside and outside before adding more rings. Adding a few rings at a time makes it easier to hollow as well as to keep the rings centered on each other.
It gets trickier when you're trying to do more fancy stuff like a rope or diamonds and such.
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Doug B
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Post by Doug B on Mar 3, 2010 16:54:08 GMT -6
Im no help with the segmenting - that is still something on my want to list. But that sure looks nice Fred. I always like Maple and Walnut together. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like there might be some Cherry too, or is it all Maple?
Nice job!
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Mark
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Post by Mark on Mar 3, 2010 19:16:03 GMT -6
Very nice Fred!
I've been turnin' things for 18 months, and haven't done one of these yet. I 'member mentioning to you that we'd see a segmented piece from you before very long.
The big hose clamps are right-on for gluing the segments of each ring together, then make sure the faces of each ring are smooth and parallel before gluing the stack, and you'll have results like or better than this first effort.
Thanks for sharing the post,
Mark
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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 3, 2010 21:15:18 GMT -6
Thanks guys
Jerry I did basically what you recommend with the clamps and hammer but they still were a little rough so I carefully mounted the rings on a chuck and trued up the face.
Doug that is just cherry and walnut, I didn't have any maple, got some now but it will have to dry a spell. It was stacked outside and covered with snow.
Mark I remember, that was fun, ready to try again.
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Post by sdb777 on Mar 4, 2010 5:37:21 GMT -6
Well, with nothing better to offer....  Cool name...."Segmented thing"  Scott (I like it) B |
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Mar 4, 2010 8:46:09 GMT -6
Jerry I did basically what you recommend with the clamps and hammer but they still were a little rough so I carefully mounted the rings on a chuck and trued up the face.Ideal thing would be to run them through a wide belt sander if they're not too bad. I've run them through my planer with a very small cut. Don't know which chuck you have, but another option would be a set of Cole Jaws. I've also seen shop made set-ups similar to the Cole Jaws. Popular Woodworking had plans for the Longworth Chuck in their April 2007 Issue. These are generally used to reverse bowls and such so that you can remove the tenon and clean up the bottoms, but would let you get larger rings onto the lathe to true them if needed.
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Post by boodrow on Mar 4, 2010 9:50:23 GMT -6
Fred I to have not done the segmented thing except on bottle stoppers and im no help to u , but looks like u done a great job on it. Thanks for postin
Boodrow
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Post by deepsplinter on Mar 4, 2010 14:47:39 GMT -6
I have no idea that segmented thing is.
I have no idea how to go about making that segmented thing.
I have no idea what I would do with that segmented thing.
But, I like it, and damn sure can appreciate all of the work involved.
Nice lookin'......thing there, Fred.
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Mar 4, 2010 17:03:02 GMT -6
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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 5, 2010 19:28:07 GMT -6
Joe thanks for the links. I didn't measure but I guess it is about 8" tall, no reflection. |
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tomd
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Post by tomd on Mar 6, 2010 0:29:25 GMT -6
A very nice piece for you first segmented try. Segmented turning is like a vortex within a vortex, your still turning but it isn't quite the same. I have done a bit of segmented turning and I recomend if you are realy interested in going further, try Malcolm Tibbits book The Art of Segmented Turning, I think it's the best book to get started in segmenting, and it's under $20 on Amazon.
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Post by dicklaxt on Mar 7, 2010 21:57:12 GMT -6
There is really a very simple and easy way to glue up segments and not have to clamp things scheduling different chores to your advantage by doing something else while glue is setting.
Make sure you have all your segments cut as required of course,have a large flat surface to work on .I used a demo'd kitchen formica top,lay a few pieces of wax paper down on the top and tape them here and there to keep them from sliding.Using Tite Bond II (there may be a later version now) and an Acid Brush (throw away's) and butter the mating edges of a pair of segments with the glue,wait 30 seconds then hand press them to gether and hold tightly with hand pressure for 15 to 20 seconds then gently slide them out of the way across the wax paper(no need to clamp) and glue up the next pair using the same procedure,wait one hour and glue up two of the previously glued pairs so on and so forth until you have a completed ring,go ahead of course and do all your rings.It is important to mark which side was the side that was down as it will become one of you glue up surface's.
Glue your bowl base on a glue block attached to a lathe mounted face plate using a piece of brown paper bag (grocery bag not brown paper) in between and let dry,do this at the very start so it can be drying while you do the rings.Then go back and turn the base face flat at some waiting point
Now repeat the gluing procedure of buttering both sides waiting before you position and press the first ring to the base.Slide the tail stock up close to ring and place a hardwood 2 x 2 across the ring and tighten to hold the ring in place while it dries.You can do this in an hour, with a good sharp tool but its best to wait 2 hours,turn the ring flat using the edge of a lathe tool to check for flatness, continue to repeat until all are glue stacked,let set overnight and you are ready to turn.................you come back to this glue up with all the sharp knuckle busting points and points that will surely catch the tool business end and all is for naught,,,,,,,haha don't dispair an easy fix is had with a side sanding wheel with real rough paper or disk and turn the lathe on and smooth those points away or take it off the lathe and clean up the points on a belt sander or hand sander then remount and turn.
A little note here ,it takes a little more waiting time but you can rough turn or rough sand the rings inside surfaces before you glue the next ring.I have done them both ways and found it was easier for me to rough sand when finished with the glue up.I had a small body side grinder with a rrough abrasive disk that worked well.
You can also saw the rings rough side before any glue ups using a jig added to your tenoning slide tool for your table saw.It is faster but easier to get an oops and loose a ring because the kerf leaves a bit unsupported on the last cut as you must rotate it in the jig.If you are successful in getting the rings all prepared then witness mark them and stack glue them and quickly put the stack on your drill press table and use your chuck pushing on a hardwood 2 x 2 on top of the stack as you crank up the table for pressure on the stack,tie off the crank with a tough bungee.I found this method a little harder to keep all the rings alligned but it was doable using the witness marks.If you put to much crank pressure the rings want to start sliding if everthing is not perfectly flat.
Segmented is not hard to do just a lot of repetative cuts and glue ups with a lot of waiting.You need a work plan, ;D, of course a bit of planing on segment lengths and widths need to be considered.I always did a bowl profile sketch to scale.
Dick
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Post by dicklaxt on Mar 7, 2010 21:59:27 GMT -6
Nice job on the turning Fred
dick
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Post by fredbelknap on Mar 8, 2010 5:34:04 GMT -6
Nice job on the turning Fred dick Dick thanks for the advice, I printed it out and added it to my go to files.  |
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Post by dicklaxt on Mar 8, 2010 17:18:02 GMT -6
Hope thoses explanations can help someone in the future.
fick
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