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Post by dcarter636 on Feb 20, 2010 14:01:15 GMT -6
What's the verdict on the quality, working life, and value of Timberwolf these days? Is there something yielding better cut quality or better value? Like anyone else I hate to spend $25-30 on a blade only to hear there's something better for less money.
Back when I had a tooling shop under my wing I had a great source of high grade blades when they got too short for our 20" Grob. Now, twenty years later, I've broken the last of my stash of good 1/2" 4 TPI skip tooth blades, I've apparently been spoiled with ready to sand resawn cuts. All I had on hand was an old hardware store (Delta?) blade that's already been re-welded a few times, and OMG what a difference, the resawn surfaces look and feel like they were made with a dull hand saw.
Since this is the first time in along time that I'll have to buy retail I'm highly ignorant and appreciate any experienced guidance.
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Post by Leo Voisine on Feb 20, 2010 14:10:56 GMT -6
I have nothing to compare to - but with my bandsaw, I bought a bunch of Timberwolf blades. I figured, buying a good cross section of blades was going to hurt real bad - once.
I think the welded area could have been better as there is a little bounce at the weld. Nothing to complain about.
They seem to work quite well.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Feb 20, 2010 15:03:01 GMT -6
I've got a bunch of TW's, too... not any huge lot, but that's all I own.
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Feb 20, 2010 16:12:42 GMT -6
Only thing I've used except TW blades are the OEM blades which are pretty much crap, Woodcraft blades which are alright, and a couple Lennox blades which I hate to even mention. They were 3/4" blades and I didn't think they were that great. Others swear by them, but . . .
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Gecko
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Post by Gecko on Feb 20, 2010 18:11:54 GMT -6
I have only used the TW blades so I have no way to judge other than they work for me. I will let you in on a little secret though. Order from Gordon Combest. His info is under the dealer link at Suffolk machinery web page. Been awhile since I have bought any blades but he used to do free shipping if you lived outside North Carolina. Use code "777" in any email orders. He is also a great guy and very knowledgeable about his blades.
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Beamer
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Post by Beamer on Feb 20, 2010 20:45:53 GMT -6
I have used only TW blades myself since i gave up on Olsen's blades years ago ... but I have heard good things about The Wood Slicer blade from highland hardware. I have seen the surface and it's VERY smooth for a bandsaw cut - it ain't TS quality, but it'd be cleaned up easily with a ROS. I just ain't taken the plunge on buyin' any myself since i have so many TW blades to wear out.
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Post by Ruffnek on Feb 21, 2010 0:24:45 GMT -6
Funny you should bring this up...
I asked a similar question over at SMC a few day ago. I've used TW blades exclusively almost since I started woodworking, based on what I read on the woodworking forums. However, I've come to the conclusion that TW blades do not retain their sharpness as long as they should. They cut great when new but dull prematurely IMHO.
The consensus I got was that the Lenox bi-metal blades were the best bang for the buck. They are about 1/3 higher cost than TW blades but are touted to last 6-8 times as long as the carbon steel TW's. I've ordered a couple to try out.
I also ordered a 3/4" Woodslicer from Highland for re-sawing. Recently, I put a new 3/4", 3 tpi Timberwolf blade on, resawed a couple dozen 3/32" slices from the various woods I had in the shop (clean wood) and the blade was noticeably dull before I finished. That's what made me decide to see what else was out there.
If I did a lot of resawing, I would spring for a carbide blade but so far Ihaven't done enough to justify the cost of one. Besides, knowing me, I'd do something to ruin it the first time I used the thing.
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Post by art3427 on Feb 21, 2010 10:20:24 GMT -6
I'm wondering if someone makes a sharpener for BS blades that are economical for a home shop guy. I think this would be great for someone who uses bandsaw a lot. I know I would own one if the price was right.
I don't think it $$$$ justifiable to do circle saws at home because carbides last so long and in many cases you can get a new one for about the same price as resharpening. BS are different in that are are almost never carbide tipped and dull much quicker.
art
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Post by art3427 on Feb 21, 2010 10:21:35 GMT -6
I wonder if a chainsaw sharpener could be set to do BS blades?
art
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Feb 21, 2010 12:39:24 GMT -6
I used to use TW blades... I had a problem... Called them & told them (him) about it.
I never heard as much pure BULL CHIT in my life! He really laid into me with all kinds of questions, etc.
Read his warranty (on website) (if it's still there)... Call to order... Talk about his Warranty, what it covers, etc. Ask him if it covers a blade that prematurily breaks...
When all is Said & Done, you will realize that there is NO WARRANTY AT ALL... Their warranty means nothing!
If you are happy with that, go for it...
I choose NOT to do business with people like that.
I understand that the Woodslicer gives you a VERY SMOOTH resawn cut... which equals a savings in wood used. I will try one someday... I don't do a whole lot of resawing...
I've heard very good things about the Lennox bi-metal blades... but have not tried them yet...
I've been getting by using Olson All Pro blades... not bad... seem to last a good amount of time.
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Stretch
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Post by Stretch on Feb 21, 2010 13:09:39 GMT -6
A lot has to do with what kind of saw you have. On a small saw, using a premium blade makes a much bigger difference than on a big saw. If you resaw a lot, Lennox carbide blades are awesome, but you have to have a big saw to tension them. I've used a Timberwolf resaw blade and it was great when new, but it just didn't hold up very long. It actually cracked and broke (not at the weld). I have a 15" Grizzly saw that's been discontinued and uses an odd sized blade. My choices are ordering blades from Grizzly or having blades welded at a custom length. I run Grizzly blades on it just because it's less hassle and I'm pretty happy with the performance. For resawing, I run a 5/8" carbide tipped blade I got from Grizzly and it works great for me. It doesn't cut glass smooth, but it is fast and that's more important to me, although I'm sure I could get a smoother cut if I came up with a better fence set up.
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Post by dcarter636 on Feb 21, 2010 15:38:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the useful replies fellers. I forgot to mention that this is used on an 25 year old Delta 14" standard height saw; the blade length is 93 1/ 2". I had established long ago that it doesn't like 3/4" blades very much and made up a considerable stash of 1/2" blades while the supply of broken blades and welder were available to me. Since I thought my need was pressing I went out to Woodcraft late yesterday and bought two blades. One is a $22 Carter Accurite 1/2" 3TPI blade who's teeth are clearly ground after setting. The butt weld is smooth and decently ground but not uniformly tempered; there's a hard spot at the weld as witnessed by the non-uniform grinding finish. The other blade bought for $29 I'm not sure about, and even less sure after reading some of the later posts here. The large yellow card packaging says PS WOOD creators of Timber Wolf; it's a 1/2" 4TPI blade that is ground after setting and appears to be tempered to blue at the front and rear edges and dark straw at the center with what I would call, if I was doing it myself, a perfectly ground and tempered butt weld. Haven't tried either one since the danged garage hasn't come above 50 o yet. Maybe the need wasn't so pressing after all.
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Feb 21, 2010 16:11:12 GMT -6
I remember quite some time back over at the other place that Dano said that most typical 14" band saws are really not able to sufficiently tension 3/4" blades, and that may be the cause of my issues with the Lenox blades I got. I typically use a 1/2" blade for most work, including resawing, and narrower blades for curved work as needed.
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Post by dcarter636 on Feb 21, 2010 18:07:02 GMT -6
I'd have to agree with Dano there Jerry; my 3/4" blades were of good quality but the cutting performance was clearly inferior to similar 1/2" blades whereas the 3/4" blades worked better on the bigger saw in the machine shop.
Seems like pretty much all I've done with the band saw in the past ten years is re-sawing or ripping of one sort or another and that isn't likely to change. So I guess I should just focus on the re-saw performance with these two band saw blades, assuming I don't just return this ersatz Timber Wolf unopened.
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