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Post by imahic on Feb 18, 2010 20:26:28 GMT -6
I'm thinking about trying to resaw some walnut I have. If you resaw a 4/4 board and then plane the two halves, do you need to take some off of both sides when it goes thru the planer? I thought I read somewhere that equal amounts should be taken from both sides. Thanks in advance for any advise. ;D
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Post by TDHofstetter on Feb 18, 2010 20:31:04 GMT -6
Not necessarily equal amounts, but it's very good practice to at least skin the "outside" side while you're planing the "inside" side.
The surface of any board will tend to have a very different moisture content (usually lower) than the interior. If you resaw & plane only the "inside", it'll shrink & become concave that direction. If you also plane the "outside", the moisture contents in the two planed faces will be more similar and you'll get less distortion.
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Post by imahic on Feb 18, 2010 20:50:17 GMT -6
Thanks, Tim. I was thinking that was what I read or something similar to it. By "skin" , are we talking 1/32 or more?
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Post by TDHofstetter on Feb 18, 2010 22:42:26 GMT -6
Best shoot for a good sixteenth if you can - joint the "inside" flat, then do all the remaining planing on the "outside" to bring it to thickness.
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Post by Ruffnek on Feb 19, 2010 0:05:12 GMT -6
Best shoot for a good sixteenth if you can - joint the "inside" flat, then do all the remaining planing on the "outside" to bring it to thickness. Eggzackery |
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Stretch
WoW Member
Mark Muhr
Posts: 461
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Post by Stretch on Feb 19, 2010 12:22:31 GMT -6
What I've found when doing resawing is that if the piece is going to cup, it'll do it almost immediately. The thinner the piece the quicker it'll do it. What you do will depend on how much it cups. Sometimes it can cup so much that you won't have enough thickness to get it flat. What you do in these instances is try to reverse the cup and get the piece to stabilize before you mill. It'll almost always cup toward the cut side because the inside of the board is drier (I've had a very few pieces cup the other way). When it cups, you can take the piece outside on a sunny day and put it on the grass with the cut side down. What will happen is that the cut side will absorb some water from the grass/ground and the other side will dry slightly in the sun. This will cause the cup to reverse. Once it's flat bring it inside and sticker it with some weight on it and let it equalize for a day or two. Repeat this process as necessary. Once it stays flat enough that you can get a board of the thickness you want out of it then you can mill it by following the directions that Tim gave.
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Post by imahic on Feb 20, 2010 14:27:35 GMT -6
Tim, Cody, and Mark, thanks guys for all the help. It is great to have folks with knowledge to turn to.
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Post by brburns on Feb 21, 2010 12:47:58 GMT -6
Stretch, I have never heard of doing that. It sounds brilliant since I have trouble getting the thikness I want when I resaw because of the cupping. I'm gonna have to try that.
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Stretch
WoW Member
Mark Muhr
Posts: 461
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Post by Stretch on Feb 21, 2010 12:57:54 GMT -6
Stretch, I have never heard of doing that. It sounds brilliant since I have trouble getting the thikness I want when I resaw because of the cupping. I'm gonna have to try that. It was one of the many tricks of the trade I learned during my apprenticeship. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, but when a board cups too much, it's the only way to try to salvage it. It also works for wider glue ups that have been left sitting on a table with no air circulating underneath. |
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