|
|
Post by Mark T on Feb 12, 2010 6:00:27 GMT -6
The thread concerning rip blades has inspired me to replace all three of my 10" blades (TS, RAS, MS). However, It would be foolish for me to buy a specific blade for each type of operation. So I need some kind of compromise for all around saw work. I crosscut and rip everything from 2x4s to soft pine, cherry, hard red oak, anywhere from 1/4" to two or so inches thick... and plywood.
OK, so I may throw out the plywood requirement. I have a couple of decent fine tooth blades for ply. Eighty dollar a sheet cherry veneer plywood IS worth the effort to change blades. But what about solid woods?
I have seen on the other thrad where several of you like the Forrest combination blade; I'll take that under advisement. But I need three blades at one clip (CHING!!!). So cost effective is , ah, also a consideration for me. A combo blade may not do anything perfectly, but I'll live. So what else (if anything) would you guys and gals recommend?
|
|
|
|
Post by TDHofstetter on Feb 12, 2010 9:12:20 GMT -6
How about the Freud LU84R? It's a well-accepted combination blade, costs about $70 each.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mark T on Feb 12, 2010 10:18:56 GMT -6
I'll be heading to Woodcrft tonight. Will check out the Freud.
THX,
|
|
sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
|
Post by sawduster on Feb 12, 2010 10:39:08 GMT -6
I'll concur with the LU84R for the tablesaw and maybe the RAS. Go with a cross cut blade for the miter saw.
Also, since you are looking for 3 separate blades at once, you might look into Systimatic blades. Their Budke Combination Blade is a true ATB R blade with a .131" kerf and runs close to $50. Other blades are comparably priced.
|
|
|
|
Post by art3427 on Feb 12, 2010 12:20:24 GMT -6
I always buy the Irwin Classic Series at Lowes. It comes with a 60t ATB and a 24t ripping blade. The 60 tooth on my MS has been on there since 2006 and still gives a nice cut. The 60 tooth on my TS is well over a year now and still does a satisfactory job even in cross grain plywood. About the only time use the 24 tooth ripper is when I am running a lot of 6/4 or resawing.
The 2 blade package costs me about $50.00.
art
|
|
|
|
Post by Mark T on Feb 12, 2010 13:42:09 GMT -6
Art, that's exactly what I'm using now. I have actually had fine luck with both blades. But alas, they are finally worn out. I will look at the so called "better" blade this evening, but unless I am wooed by something new, I may very well go right back to the Erwin set. I can afford to buy close to two sets for one premium blade price blade.
I live exactly one mile from the Woodcraft headquarter store (Parkersburg, WV). I may go ahead and buy a semi premium blade and give it a go this weekend. If it turns out to be golden, I can always go back for another one or two.
I hate to go to Woodcraft though. I want one of EVERYTHING they have, and the HQ flagship store is stuffed to the ceiling. Dangerous place.
|
|
|
|
Post by triplefreak on Feb 12, 2010 15:50:07 GMT -6
I always buy the Irwin Classic Series at Lowes. It comes with a 60t ATB and a 24t ripping blade. The 60 tooth on my MS has been on there since 2006 and still gives a nice cut. The 60 tooth on my TS is well over a year now and still does a satisfactory job even in cross grain plywood. About the only time use the 24 tooth ripper is when I am running a lot of 6/4 or resawing. The 2 blade package costs me about $50.00. art I bought these exact same blades at my local Lowes on the closeout table for $8 a package. I bought all 3 (2) packs they had left. |
|
|
|
Post by Leo Voisine on Feb 12, 2010 17:30:35 GMT -6
|
|
rrich
WoW Member
Posts: 737
|
Post by rrich on Feb 12, 2010 17:45:29 GMT -6
I would advise against using a single (or type of) blade for all three applications.
Using a table saw blade on a RAS is very dangerous. The TS needs a positive hook angle while the RAS MUST HAVE A BLADE WITH A NEGATIVE HOOK ANGLE. A positive hook angle blade on a RAS will throw the carriage straight at you and make for a rough cut.
On the miter saw you should be looking for a fine cut blade, with a negative hook angle and more of a cross cut design. The miter saw is usually intended for fine finish cuts.
While the table saw CAN use a RAS blade it is best to use one with a positive hook angle. The RAS blade on a table saw will make the TS seem to be heavy going when making a cut.
|
|
|
|
Post by fredbelknap on Feb 12, 2010 17:59:29 GMT -6
Mark I have Freud, Systematic. and Forrest II and they all are good and will do the job. The Forrest reside on my TS most of the time as I don't like to change blades. It gives questionable the best cut in most situations. Hitting utility knife blades buried in plywood don't slow them down but it does effect the cut quality.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ruffnek on Feb 12, 2010 19:33:26 GMT -6
I would advise against using a single (or type of) blade for all three applications. Using a table saw blade on a RAS is very dangerous. The TS needs a positive hook angle while the RAS MUST HAVE A BLADE WITH A NEGATIVE HOOK ANGLE. A positive hook angle blade on a RAS will throw the carriage straight at you and make for a rough cut. On the miter saw you should be looking for a fine cut blade, with a negative hook angle and more of a cross cut design. The miter saw is usually intended for fine finish cuts. While the table saw CAN use a RAS blade it is best to use one with a positive hook angle. The RAS blade on a table saw will make the TS seem to be heavy going when making a cut. I wondered if anyone was going to mention that. Rich is right in that the RAS, especially, needs a negative hook blade. I'd run one on the MS, too. |
|
|
|
Post by TDHofstetter on Feb 12, 2010 20:26:07 GMT -6
I think "MUST" is a little too strong a word for the negative-hook blades on a RAS. They're strongly recommended... but for years I used a positive-hook (about 15 degrees positive) blade on my RAS. A negative-hook blade makes life much easier, to be sure.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leo Voisine on Feb 13, 2010 11:38:00 GMT -6
I think "MUST" is a little too strong a word for the negative-hook blades on a RAS. They're strongly recommended... but for years I used a positive-hook (about 15 degrees positive) blade on my RAS. A negative-hook blade makes life much easier, to be sure. I have to agree. When I had my RAS - I never even knew about a negative hook blade. I ripped and cross cut literally tons of all sorts of stuff. |
|
