Snow day plan

[sdb777]

As a delivery driver for home builders(mostly), when it snows...I don't get to work. So the plan for later is to slice up some cedar logs/chunks into pen blanks.

When I got these chunks/logs home I peeled the bark off and applied AnchorSeal to the ends. Now I'm wanting to cut them into blanks, but I'm unsure as to what/where to re-apply the AnchorSeal.

If I cut the pen blanks a little large 1x1x6 and make the pieces cross-grain, where do I re-apply the AnchorSeal stuff? Just the end grain? Also, cedar is known to shrink some...will the 1x1x6 be large enough?(Better too big then too small)

After I cut, is there something special that I need to do for storage, drying? Thinking I need to 'stick' them like I would if I was milling board for airflow.... The pieces will be staying in the garage. Would storing them on the floor be better then up near the ceiling?


I know they are not quit ready for turning, but I want to get this done. Anyone feel like commenting...please do! I've never cut my own blanks and would like to do it right the first time.





Scott (snow days hurt the wallet) B

[TDHofstetter]

Cut the blanks exactly as if they were little logs, grain running end-to-end. Your choice - seal the ends or accelerate the drying by one of several processes... I boil my green (bowl or pen) blanks, some folks soak in denatured alcohol. some soak in polyethylene glycol (PEG).

If you just seal without accelerating, seal both ends of each blank & tuck 'em away. A refrigerator rack is just about ideal for the purpose. You can also pack 'em into a brown paper sack full of lathe shavings & staple the top shut.

I won't suggest microwaving, although some folks do that, too. I've had my one bad experience with it...

[sawduster]

If I cut the pen blanks a little large 1x1x6 and make the pieces cross-grain, where do I re-apply the AnchorSeal stuff? Just the end grain? Also, cedar is known to shrink some...will the 1x1x6 be large enough?(Better too big then too small)

Not absolutely sure what you are saying here, but regardless, you need to seal the cross grain of the wood. If you're cutting the blanks perpendicular to the way the grain runs in the log, then you need to seal the two long sides that display the end grain. Parallel to the log, then seal the ends.

1X1X6 ought to be plenty large for most any pen kits.

[sdb777]

Cut pattern:



Excuse the elementary drawing, think it'll explain the blanks I'd like to get.



Scott (kindergarden drawing) B

[Doug B]

I've had really good luck using the Denatured Alcohol (DNA) soaking method Scott. Cody uses that method and 'splained it to us one time. I bought 2 gallons of DNA an put into a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid (from Lowes). That stays in my shop all the time, just waiting for something to be dunked in it.

When I have a green bowl or pen blanks that need treatment, they just get dropped in the bucket, weighted down if necessary to make sure they stay submerged, and soak for about 24 hours. Remove from the DNA and let dry by laying on cardboard. Couple weeks later the pen blanks should be ready.

The most important thing that this does is prevent the wood from cracking. You still might get some cracking, but it works very well.

Now, be careful using the center pith area - it is most prone to cracking. You might get away with it on the cross cuts, but normally you would want to cut out the pith area to help prevent cracking - that is true whether cutting bowl blanks or pen blanks.