CA question

[sdb777]

Got the pen 'bug' here, and I've been playing with the CA glue for a finish. I understand that there will be a 'learning curve', but was hoping that someone would jump in and offer a few 'short-cuts'.

Using the 'thin CA' directly on the turned blank(putting it on quite heavily), wipe it on and let it dry. Repeating this 8 times. Letting it dry in between coats. Letting it sit for about 2 hours and then wet sanding with 1500grit. Buffing with wax(all I have laying around-is there something better?)
*How much time would I save by using the 'medium CA' or 'thick CA"?(Does it require longer to dry)
*Would it reduce the amount of times I'd need to apply 'coats'?
*Is it necessary to use the 'accelerator' between applications of CA?(Or could I just use the 'be patient button'?)


I've watched the few videos that I could find on uTube and PSI's website, but these questions are not answered in them(unless I missed it). Anyone feel like sharing some tips?




Scott (advise from a pen guru needed) B

[sachbvn]

Scott - there are tons of methods to putting on CA glue - some with sanding between coats, some not - some using accelerator, some not.... You will find something that works for you - having said that, I will add - what you described is about 12 steps more extensive than mine..... Mine is from info straight from Doug and from a video he shared (can't find the link at the moment - search the turning bench forum you will find several posts on CA finishing)

I sand through 600 grit
With lathe at slow speed, I put a good puddle of THIN CA on a paper towel and rub back and forth on pen blank, I then immediately take a separate paper towel spritzed with BLO and wipe it back and forth on pen blank while increasing speed to about 1500 RPMs

I let it run for a little bit and dry

I then do the same process using medium CA glue - let dry after you go over it with BLO, I do this step THREE times.

I let it for a bit to dry - then go over it with micromesh all the way to the finest grade.

At that point you can buff with EEE paste (PSI has this stuff.) I have not done this step, I have skipped to next step because I don't have any EEE yet.

I wax on the Beall system - I do NOT use tripoli or WD paste, I ONLY wax the pen blanks.


Done.

Zac

[Doug B]

I concur with Zac

The best thing about CA finish is that it only takes a few seconds to be completely done with the finish.

There are always exceptions, but for the most part I do the following:

I apply thin CA with the lathe spinning at lowest speed - paper towel below the blank to apply the CA evenly and the CA bottle dripping CA right on top of the pen barrels. This is very very quick - 3 second...maybe less - if you take too long the paper towel will stick to the pen barrel and make a huge mess. Usually this coat of CA will by cured by the time you turn the lathe off, loosen the tail stock and separate the blanks from the bushings.

Then I apply 3 coats of medium CA, one right after the other, curing each one with a dab of BLO. Apply the CA by putting a nice puddle on a paper towel and wipe onto the pen barrels from below, with the lathe at low speed, increase to about mid speed constantly moving the paper towel back and forth. And finally kick the lathe up to close to full speed constantly moving the towel back and forth.

I am a cheap bastige, so I get the half sheet paper towels, then fold that half sheet in fourths. 3 of the corners will be used once with CA puddled on it, and the fourth is going to be used to hold the BLO and gets re-used for each coat.

The real trick is figuring out all the variables such as how much CA, how much BLO, how fast to spin the lathe, when to increase the speed of the lathe, etc. And it seems to be different for just about everyone who uses CA for a finish.

At any time during this process, if the CA finish is not what you want, you can sand it back smooth, or even completely off and start over. I've done that many, many times. Again, it only takes a few seconds, so you can usually get the finish you want within a few minutes even with some re-do's.

For a video of how its done, here is a place (IAP) where you can watch a couple different method. This is where I picked up the basics of what I do. www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1488

Both Don Ward and Russ Fairfield have good videos that are very helpful.

Hope that helps.

[sachbvn]

I will warn - don't use too much BLO, I've gotten a bunch on there and it seemed to not want to dry off very well.... the pen still worked out ok, but some of the stuff got on my micromesh.


Zac

[sawduster]

Unless I'm working with some very porous wood, I generally use only thin CA. I sand to 600 grit before the first application. Some of the parts in the pen kits come in little plastic ziplock bags and I pull one of those over the birdie finger on my right hand then hold a little square of folded over paper towel on top of the bag and apply the CA like Doug explained. I put on thin coats wiping across the wood and getting off of it before the glue begins curing. I then let the pen spin for about thirty seconds, then hit it with a couple short squirts of accelerator then proceed with the next coat. After three or four coats, I check to see that the surface is smooth, and if it isn't, I will use some 600 grit to smooth it. I then apply one more coat being sure to keep the surface smooth.

After hitting the last coat with accelerator, I begin working my way through the micro mesh grits all the way to 12,000 grit. My most recent pen, I started spritzing the micro mesh with a bit of water from an old Windex bottle (which I use to spritz my sharpening stones), wiping down the pen between grits with a damp paper towel.

Before I started using the little plastic bags from the kit parts, I bought a box of thin rubber gloves and would use them one finger at a time, clipping the first inch or so of each finger off of the glove and slipping it over my birdie finger. Doug ain't got nothing on me when it comes to cheap. ;D