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Post by maverick31 on Jan 26, 2010 19:47:46 GMT -6
I was doing some reading and saw a famous turner/writter likes to use blo/beeswax for finishing. I am curious if anyone uses this finish method and what the pros/cons are.
I may give this a wirl, but I am worried about how the finish will hold up over time. Will I have to reapply wax down the road or will it be ok forever. I was thinking about doing this on bowls/vases only. I am guessing that this will be best on these items since they are not handled as frequently as pens.
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Post by sachbvn on Jan 26, 2010 20:12:48 GMT -6
I was watching a turning DVD I got for Christmas, I think it was from *?*Richard Raffin* I can't remember exactly and don't feel like looking.
He uses almost exclusively wax as his finish. I can't remember if there is another part to it - it looked like he had this huge wax nugget that sat next to his lathe - when he was done he just rubbed it in all over and with a cloth rubbed the wax in the rest of the way - he said he uses this more than anything else. He was making things that wouldn't get handled near as much as pens or bottle stoppers though.
Zac
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rhull
WoW Member
Posts: 422
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Post by rhull on Jan 26, 2010 20:30:55 GMT -6
I think you're right Zac, it's Raffan who does that. I tried oil and bees wax. My experience is that it looks nice at first, and smells great when you're waxing. However, the wax turns dull very quickly, and beeswax isn't hard enough to hold up over time, especially for something that's going to get handled a lot. If you're going to use wax, use carnauba.
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Post by maverick31 on Jan 26, 2010 21:21:35 GMT -6
yes it was raffan that does this. I was afraid it would eventually dull. I was just curious about it. Seems like other finishes would be better, but you never know.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Jan 26, 2010 21:59:01 GMT -6
The trick - if there is one - is to leave only a VERY THIN coating of wax on the piece, not enough to build a film. It wants good hard rubbing to get that way, cloth turned often to take off any excess.
When it's finished, the surface should already look pretty dull. Then, handling doesn't change the surface much.
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Post by sachbvn on Jan 27, 2010 8:18:32 GMT -6
....which is true about his pieces - as said by himself, he prefers the matte look rather than a real high gloss sheen....
Zac
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Post by mapleman on Jan 27, 2010 16:13:06 GMT -6
Raffan is also a fan of mineral and beeswax --- perfectly foodsafe, easily restored, and easy done to begin with.
i like it for any foodware type bowls.
i will switch to a BLO or danish oil and wax for non food bowls. i am not big on polys or lacquers (yet)... although i may get there on specialty, purely decoration bowls...
hope that helps,
j
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Jan 27, 2010 18:09:32 GMT -6
Raffan is also a fan of mineral and beeswax --- perfectly foodsafe, easily restored, and easy done to begin with. i like it for any foodware type bowls. i will switch to a BLO or danish oil and wax for non food bowls. i am not big on polys or lacquers (yet)... although i may get there on specialty, purely decoration bowls... hope that helps, j Hey, John. Glad you are back. Been missing some good natured sparring. ;D |
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Post by maverick31 on Jan 27, 2010 20:10:34 GMT -6
The trick - if there is one - is to leave only a VERY THIN coating of wax on the piece, not enough to build a film. It wants good hard rubbing to get that way, cloth turned often to take off any excess. When it's finished, the surface should already look pretty dull. Then, handling doesn't change the surface much. So in theory, this finish should hold up well over time if executed properly? I guess I am looking for something that is easy/fast and not very shiney but will not look bad in 6 months. Some folks just don't like the high gloss finishes on bowls |
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