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Post by Mark T on Jan 25, 2010 5:57:31 GMT -6
I have a lot of cherry that I am milling to S4S. After planing I need to make the first edge straight. I have started a jig for the table saw whereas a board is held fast to the jig and run through saw. I cannot easily use the jointer because the boards are 8' long and my bed is not long enough to accommodate long stuff easily.
So, I have an 8'X1' sheet of ply with a runner to fit the T slot in the saw. It has been run through the saw so the blade side edge is actually the edge of the blade, making for easy indexing of the raw edge of the board I'm straightening. As the boards will be different widths, I need a hold down system that will move in and out and up and down the jig, for various length and width boards.
Anyone have a good solution?
I don't have pictures figured out well yet, but will post a pic or two when I get a picture host.
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Post by rnemtp3 on Jan 25, 2010 6:09:57 GMT -6
Mark, I actually saw a jig set up like what you are talking about in a magazine a while back. It had the same set up then had some t track running perpendicular to the blade with some hold downs that slide back and forth in the t track from different width boards. The link www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21387 shows the t track and hold downs like they used. Thought this might help. Andy
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Post by deepsplinter on Jan 25, 2010 7:12:08 GMT -6
Something like this? I guess you could make it as long and wide as you want.
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Post by Ruffnek on Jan 25, 2010 8:47:25 GMT -6
Dave's straight-edge ripping jig is probably the cheapest and simplest to build. It can be used with the fence for long stock...like your 8' stuff. Here's a sketch from a WOOD Magazine plan that is similar to Dave's.
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Post by Mark T on Jan 25, 2010 9:40:34 GMT -6
Bingo! Those are what I'm looking for. Issue solved.
Thank you gents.
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Beamer
Forum Management
Posts: 1,176
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Post by Beamer on Jan 25, 2010 10:43:07 GMT -6
Quick question, Mark ...
Are your final pieces going to be much shorter?
If so, You'll stand to lose less wood if you rough cut them to length first.
The straight edge jigs Dave and Cody posted are perfect, though, if you still need super long boards with a good straight edge on 'em. Plus, they also work as VERY good taper jigs (i don't like them hinged thingies, myself).
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JBark
WoW Member
Posts: 163
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Post by JBark on Jan 25, 2010 15:11:48 GMT -6
Just a thought for future reference on the same issue. If you've got a straight edge (the plywood) you can always clamp the boards to it using your regular C-clamps and then rout the edge striaght with a handheld router and straight bit with bearing.
John
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