|
Post by sdb777 on Jan 17, 2010 8:18:44 GMT -6
Does anyone use this product?
Has anyone got a finishing technique using this stuff?
Would it be enough of a finish on it's own(no poly after)?
Using this stuff for a walnut/maple crow call, then sanding(after drying) with 1800grit, re-applying, dry, sand. Should I sand with 2000grit(highest grit I have), and then apply a coat or four of poly for a glassy finish/protection from weather?
Scott (so lost I can't be found) B
|
|
|
Post by Ruffnek on Jan 17, 2010 18:09:12 GMT -6
I'e used it on turnings to firm up punky areas. I always followed with a top coat of something after sanding.
1800 grit or 2000 grit, it probably doesn't make much difference, especially when following with a finish. At those grits, you are burnishing the wood as much as sanding it.
FWIW, I would sand the wood hardener and then follow with a poly finish for durability. Sand between coats of poly with 4-0 steel wool or 600 grit wet/dry. For a high shine, buff the poly when it has cured.
The best bet for using any product like wood hardener is to actualy read the mfg's instructtions on the container. Yeah, yeah, I know...it goes against the grain but it does help. ;D
|
|
Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
|
Post by Doug B on Jan 18, 2010 0:51:43 GMT -6
I've used Minwax Wood Hardener for stabilizing too, and it helped quite a bit, but not as much as I hoped it would. And I always put a CA finish on top of it.
When in doubt, put a coat of shellac over it and then any other top coat finish should be fine...wood hardener by itself was not enough of a finish for me.
|
|