Push Shoe for Tablesaw

[sawduster]

These came up in Cody's Rocking Chair Build thread and rather than clustering that up with other stuff, thought I'd start another thread. I've never been real thrilled with the idea of using the typical push stick on the table saw. It does nothing to prevent the leading end of the stock being ripped from lifting a vibrating and such once that end passes to the back side of the blade. I prefer what is referred to as a push shoe of one or another design. Some time back I bought one of these "Saw-Aids",



and they work great, except that for cuts less than about 1/2" thick, they are in jeopardy of being chewed up. My solution was to trace the outline and handle hole of mine onto some 3/4" plywood and then cut my own on the band saw and scroll saw (for the interior cut of the handle). Using decent quality ply, I feel comfortable using these to make rips down to less than 1/8" thick. Having a number of them on hand, I can use one for specific thicknesses that I might repeat later on by simply using it being careful to keep the edge sliding against the rip fence, then mark the width and be able to use it when I'm cutting slices of the same thickness later on.

[TDHofstetter]

I did something similar... traced the tote on my favorite handsaw, drilled & sawed out the handhole, routed it all smooth-like, and mounted it on a narrow "heeled" board with brass screws. That heel is almost totally gone now, so it's about time to make another one. Fits my hand REALLY NICELY since it's patterned after that saw. Even has horns.

[Joe Lyddon]

Here is another approach to safely ripping thin strips:

www.woodworkstuff.net/EFeaRip.html

Basically, have a Stop opposite the rip fence the exact distance away from blade as desired, put larger board against the Stop, move the rip fence over to meet the board, and rip your strip safely.

For another exact width strip, repeat the operation.

You can cut strips to any width desired... 1/32, 1/16, etc.

Safely...

[TDHofstetter]

Just don't let it pass the leading edge of the blade... where it can trap and kick back. It MUST stop just shy of the blade.

[sawduster]

Still be a good idea to use a push shoe to push the work through while holding it firmly onto the table.

[imahic]

What Tim described is what I was referring to in the other post. I saw it in some woodworking magazine but haven't had a chance to see which one yet. Most could figure it out on their own based on Tim's description I am sure. The thing I liked was the replaceable heel on the back which it sounds like Tim has figured out as well.

Mike

[Ruffnek]

I keep a couple of saw handle templates I made for stuff like that. I put one on the coping sled I made.





However, for the tablesaw, I prefer the type I showed in the rocking chair build. The pressure is almost directly over the stock and as Jerry noted, helps to keep the back side from raising up once it passes the blade.

Also, if using it in the manner I showed, it becomes sacrificial...as are all my push shoes. When the bottom gets chewed up by the saw blade, I'll cut it off on the bandsaw and glue on a new cleat. I can get about three "refreshers" before i have to toss it and build another.

I generally keep them in 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" widths in one of the TS cabinet drawers.

[admin]

Very inventive Cody.

I made a saw tote style push stick. Spent hours making it just *perfect* shaped beautifully, rasped to perfection.

And the first time I used it I ended up cutting a notch in the bottom of it. Dingit! Oh well, good practice. ;D