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Post by triplefreak on Jan 4, 2010 12:26:36 GMT -6
What kind of finishes are you guys using for making pens & such?
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Post by Beezlebub on Jan 4, 2010 12:45:45 GMT -6
CA
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Post by TDHofstetter on Jan 4, 2010 13:23:47 GMT -6
Dipped nitrocellulose lacquer. CA doesn't work in my shop.
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Post by sachbvn on Jan 4, 2010 13:40:36 GMT -6
Either Mylands friction polish or HUT Crystal Coat. I apply two coats - the second is very light. I just use plain ol' Viva paper towels.
Zac
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Post by boodrow on Jan 4, 2010 14:00:30 GMT -6
Mylands friction polish for me , will use CA on a spalted blank if the wood isnt in real good shape.
Boodrow
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Post by triplefreak on Jan 4, 2010 14:06:24 GMT -6
Well, I bought some HUTs from Rockhead last week is why I ask. I got the brown bar & the white bar.
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Jan 4, 2010 16:14:35 GMT -6
I like the high gloss shine to last like forever on the pen I make and CA is about the best and quickest way I've found to get that to happen. The friction polish and shellac both wear too quickly and Poly takes too long cause you gotta do a bunch of coats that have to cure a while. Lacquer (dipping in the brushing kind) is good, but I really don't care for the smell.
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Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
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Post by Doug B on Jan 4, 2010 16:17:12 GMT -6
CA for most woods. For oily woods I'm getting to like the dipped lacquer as recommended by Tim.
When I first started turning, I used both Mylands friction polish and Shellawax. Those are easy to get a really nice looking finish with, but I progressed to CA finishing because the friction polishes do not last very long.
<edit>
Jerry must have been typing his response at the same time I was. And I agree with him that the Lacquer has a smell that bothers me a great deal. I do the Lacquer dipping method outdoors for that reason.
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Post by maxwellsmart007 on Jan 4, 2010 17:22:31 GMT -6
CA is the method i use... I can't use Lacquer in the winter anyway because my shop is right by my heater - and in -30, it's running pretty much constantly...
Andrew
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Post by sdb777 on Jan 4, 2010 20:45:29 GMT -6
Dipped nitrocellulose lacquer. CA doesn't work in my shop. Why doesn't CA work at your shop? Scott (just wondering) B |
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Post by TDHofstetter on Jan 4, 2010 21:10:53 GMT -6
I never did completely figure that out. Nobody else seems to be able to make it work in my shop, either - it always goes milky white as soon as it's applied. I figure no great loss anyway - I don't like CA for a finish.
I'm not overly fond of it for anything, since it's an unstable molecule, but I find uses for it now & then for stuff I don't expect to last longer than about ten years.
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Post by autobodyman on Jan 5, 2010 23:15:06 GMT -6
Martin Senior automotive polyurethane with flex additive and hardner sprayed on, 3 to 6 coats. I prefer to do a bunch at a time though, run some mechanics wire from one side of my paint booth to the other going threw all the pen blanks. Kind of a pain for just a few.
~Mike
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Post by TDHofstetter on Jan 5, 2010 23:48:10 GMT -6
They make automotive poly? That's good to know about! Now I need to do a little research; I've got a project in the barrel that calls for some good enough for automotive use.
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Post by dicklaxt on Jan 6, 2010 10:23:45 GMT -6
I aways liked the Beall Buff on top of 400 to 600 grit,it always came up with a creamy gloss if that makes any sense even tho it wasn't long lasting,it would dull easily with handling but would repair just as easily.I liked the eloquent look.
It wasn't a good candidate for pens but looked really good on vases and bowls.
dick
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Joe Lyddon
WoW Member
Banned.
Sam Maloof & I Dec. 2, 2005
Posts: 2,507
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Jan 6, 2010 12:47:04 GMT -6
I have not made any pens...
But, I think my favorite finishing method is...
Sand, water down, sand, Trans-Tint in distilled water as desired, sand, Wiped-on shellac dewaxed, light sand, shellac, light sand, 4-5 more coats of shellac, light sand, buff, wax, & buff...
The shellac dries SO FAST, it makes it very easy to do... without taking a LONG time to wait for stuff to dry...
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Post by rdabpenman on Feb 21, 2010 15:30:48 GMT -6
I use MINWAX Clear Gloss Polyurethane with great consistant results. Les   |
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Post by sachbvn on Feb 21, 2010 16:50:33 GMT -6
I've since changed my finishing method to that of CA. I've never tried the poly route so I can't comment on the results other than to comment that at the price I sell my pens, it does not warrant the time needed to go the poly route.
Les has proven results - they are superb.
I think you can get superb, consistent, results with CA too - however, CA will simply not work in every instance. Oily woods will cause you problems.... sometimes Cocobolo will fog up, other times it will be just fine. Personally - I think when sanding you will be able to tell how oily that piece of wood is.... and I would do another type of finish.
I tried the dipping method on a few scrap barrels and wasn't completely impressed. I tried the CA, got the hang of it quickly, so that is the method I've continued to use.
I could try the poly method - for those blanks that I fear will not work with the CA finish.
Zac
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Post by sdb777 on Feb 21, 2010 20:33:37 GMT -6
For right now CA/BLO, mm thru 12k, buff some wax.
Going to use some plastic polish instead of the wax and see what the results are that way.
Got Les' .pdf tutorial, and will be trying his method some time real soon! Wish it could have been loaded onto the forum, because a LOT of people would benefit from it(well written and excellent photo's).
Out of all the things to do to make a pen, finishing is on the bottom of the list as far as favorites go. Maybe it's cause I don't know how the CA/BLO is going to 'act' at the intended time of use?
I feel that the amount of coats for the finish obtained isn't up to the standards others making them. I see pens on IAP that are reported to have two coats CA/BLO, but they have a super glossy shine on them(I typical use 3 to 5 coats, and my finishes are dull compared to them).
Scott (always looking for an easier finish) B
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Post by oakridgeboy on Feb 21, 2010 21:36:55 GMT -6
I use MINWAX Clear Gloss Polyurethane with great consistant results. Les Les: would you care to explain your poly method?Do you spray or wipe it on? Thanks. Mike |
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