High gloss finish............

[sdb777]

Did a search on the 'net, but my head is spinning now! I would have probably been alright if I had only looked at one of the responses....but I didn't.

Let me explain what I'm trying to accomplish.
I've started turning predator/crow calls on the lathe, and they need to have a great finish to resist water(could get rained on). But I'd like them to be one of those "That-still-looks-wet-finishes!"
Thankfully, I'm still practicing on yellow pine, spruce, and poplar(skills aren't good enough to chuck up a $50 chunk of wood----yet!). Also trying to come up with my "signature look", but I'm going to need to start 'finishing' these practice pieces to get some experience(practice).


So how do I get that "It still looks wet finish"?
What do I use to get it(shopping list)?
(I'd prefer not to use epoxy)




Scott (I'd like an easy method) B

[dcarter636]

You can get the wet look with several coats of shellac, but I prefer a couple coats of high gloss oil base Verathane for durability and moisture resistance.

[TDHofstetter]

My favorite high-gloss finish is numerous coats of clear lacquer over at least two of super blonde shellac. Build the lacquer up thick, then sand back, sanding up to 2000-grit automotive silicon carbide papers. Finish up with automotive "swirl remover".

Dipping lacquer works the best for smaller things like calls; mix lacquer and lacquer thinner about 50/50 in an empty can, fashion a dipping wire (stainless or brass work best), dip SLOWLY ONCE. Shake ONCE at the floor, violently, to throw off excess. Dip again after two hours, no sanding. When you're convinced it's built up enough, hang it up for a good 24 hours.

[sawduster]

Two votes for lacquer. Like shellac, additional coats of lacquer weld into the previous coats, i.e. they dissolve the previous coat slightly and the coating becomes a single layer, but thicker, as you add additional coats.

For small items (relatively speaking) like your predator calls, dipping would be the ideal.

[Stretch]

Another vote for lacquer here. Just like Tim said but I'll add that I would wet sand with the paper dipped in paint thinner.

[sdb777]

Looking like clear lacquer is the choice!

What brand do the masses tend to purchase?
Keep in mind I have a Home Depot and Lowes within a few miles, and they tend to be.....well, not the smartest bulbs in the pack.


You know this is going to lead to many more questions.......




Scott (got to keep the airway open) B

[Stretch]

Lowes should carry Deft brushing lacquer. A Sherwin Williams store should carry lacquer. My brand of choice would be ML Campbell, but finding a local supplier might be tough. Any of the above should do you fine. Just remember to watch the fumes with lacquer. I always wear a respirator for organic vapors when I deal with it.

[TDHofstetter]

Yep, pretty much any ol' brand of clear lacquer will work just fine. I started dipping with WoodCraft's lacquer, but right now I'm dipping in Deft (the can expressly prohibits thinning, but that's what makes dipping lacquer work). It's a nice nitrocellulose lacquer, gives a good brilliant gloss.

[sdb777]

Okay I dip a call in this laquer/thinner mix.....how do I get it out of the airway without ruining the finish?

Guess I could use a dowel with sandpaper to clear the area to install the reed......but that's only .250"




Scott (maybe I should turn this off and go turn something) B

[Ruffnek]

If you dip the call, you may want to coat the area where the reed goes with wax so that you can remove the lacquer after it dries. Otherwise, the reed probably won't go in since that's such a precise, friction fit.

FWIW, I'd use Minwax wipe-on poly if you don't mind waiting between coats for it to dry. If you sand well before applying it, and sand with 4/0 steel wool between coats, it will really begin to shine after the third coat. It's almost impervious to water, too.

But, you can apply the lacquer in a single day, although you will have to wait on it to cure before rubbing it out for that "wet look".
I've never "dipped" anything so I can't comment further on that method.

For something like a duck call, consider a CA finish. It goes on quick, dries almost instantly (especially with accellerator) and will give you that wet look when done. It wouldn't take much more than what it takes to do a pen.

[TDHofstetter]

You COULD... prewax the airway before dipping. The lacquer won't stick to the waxed surface AT ALL.

Or... lessee. If we can drum up some 1/4" (cork-type) stoppers, lacquer won't stick to those, either. They'd be used to seal off the airway during dipping.

Or... a thinned (by sanding) dowel with a-weight sandpaper wrapped around it would work well.

Anybody know if they make a 1/4" drum sander drum? Like for a spindle sander? No need to do it under power, handheld would work just fine for something like this.

Or... slip a (NON-lubricated, UNpowdered) condom through the airway, inflate it a little (use your imagination), use it to do the dipping, then deflate it or just pull it through when the lacquer's set up. Um... wait. I'm not sure if the lacquer thinner will eat latex - I bet it will, won't it? Does anybody make silicone condoms?

[fredbelknap]

Jan 2, 2010 21:19:22 GMT -6 TDHofstetter said:

You COULD... prewax the airway before dipping. The lacquer won't stick to the waxed surface AT ALL.

Or... lessee. If we can drum up some 1/4" (cork-type) stoppers, lacquer won't stick to those, either. They'd be used to seal off the airway during dipping.

Or... a thinned (by sanding) dowel with a-weight sandpaper wrapped around it would work well.

Anybody know if they make a 1/4" drum sander drum? Like for a spindle sander? No need to do it under power, handheld would work just fine for something like this.

Or... slip a (NON-lubricated, UNpowdered) condom through the airway, inflate it a little (use your imagination), use it to do the dipping, then deflate it or just pull it through when the lacquer's set up. Um... wait. I'm not sure if the lacquer thinner will eat latex - I bet it will, won't it? Does anybody make silicone condoms?

Isn't lacquer thinner acetone, The blue nitrile gloves aren't effected by it but don't know if nitrile is latex or not.

[TDHofstetter]

Good call - the nitrile should be fine.

Lacquer thinner is usually some blend of acetone, xylol, and/or toluol. I b'lieve nitrile will stand up to all three, but I'm not sure. Latex won't, and vinyl won't.