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Post by dalearmbruster on Jun 2, 2010 5:46:50 GMT -6
Been working with the jig and have in my feable opinion mastered the through dovetails. I now have to master the sliding DT.
I am in the process of building a dresser out of birch and want to use sliding DTs.
Anyone have any experience with this? How loose or tight do you make the joint and any tricks on gluing?
Cheers, Dale
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Post by Ruffnek on Jun 2, 2010 6:49:04 GMT -6
Well, looky what the cat dragged in! How you been, buddy. I've been wondering what happened to you but just assumed that you were still in mourning over the Viqueens blowing the NFC Championship game against the Saints. Ol' prima donna Favre just can't help throwing picks in key moments of big games. Oh well, looks like he's coming back for another year since he had the ankle surgery. I'm sure all of Minnesota is thrilled.  As for the sliding dovetails, I've used that joint before but I didn't make it with a Leigh jig. I used a dovetail bit to cut the groove and then used the same bit to shape the sides of the tenon, sneaking up on the width until it slid in easily but wasn't loose. You don't want it too snug because the glue will swell it just a bit. Good to hear from you. Why don't you stick around a while. We're moving to new, fancier digs soon. |
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Post by Keystone on Jun 2, 2010 7:42:58 GMT -6
Just like Cody said. To date that has been the hardest joint I have done. Took a ton of practice to get it right.
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Post by dalearmbruster on Jun 2, 2010 9:15:26 GMT -6
One thing I like about DT joints is that they are virtually self squaring which is a big benefit. A sliding DT will definitely not come apart.
Looks like you need a haircut Ken!! ;D
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Post by TDHofstetter on Jun 2, 2010 9:49:41 GMT -6
One of the beeches about sliding dovetails is wood movement - you mill the dovetail, you go indoors for the evening, and the next morning your dovetailed board has cupped a little - not MUCH, but enough to make the dovetail really tough to assemble... especially without glue-starving the joint as it's rammed into place (it scrapes the glue back out of the joint).
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Post by Leo Voisine on Jun 2, 2010 10:23:39 GMT -6
Welcome back Dale.
I did one sliding dovetail joint a few years ago. I don't remember, but I believe it worket out OK. I don't even remember what I did it on. I am pretty sure I cut it on a Crapsman little extruded router table.
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Jun 2, 2010 10:51:48 GMT -6
When I've done them by machine, I have had to sneak up on the with of the tail, half a hair at a time. By hand one generally tapers the width of the socket over the length so that it snugs up as you tap it into place. Either way I don't generally worry much about starving the joint of glue as it only takes a little bit of glue to keep the joint from sliding, and the mechanical strength keeps the joint strong and stiff, especially if it is on the tighter side.
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Post by Ruffnek on Jun 2, 2010 11:53:31 GMT -6
Either way I don't generally worry much about starving the joint of glue as it only takes a little bit of glue to keep the joint from sliding, I've read that a good glue bond only takes one molecule of glue thickness to be effective. That's not much glue. As much as I liked watching the NYW, ol' Normy influenced a whole generation of woodworkers to use too little clamping pressure for fear of glue-starving the joint...and it ain't gonna happen. With the normal clamps found in woodshops you can't apply enough pressure to starve the joint of glue. Just another of those myths that got seeded via TV and propagated via the 'net. I'm not sure about scraping the glue off while inserting the dovetailed tenon. Seems that if glue was applied to both surfaces prior to assembly, there would be enough left to get a good bond but I'm just guessing. After all, traditional M&T joints should be pretty snug prior to assembly and a lot of the glue gets scraped off when inserting the tenon but it still makes a very strong joint. One of these days I'm gonna get Tage Frid's book on furnituremaking. I'll bet he covers this situation. |
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Post by Ruffnek on Jun 2, 2010 12:27:42 GMT -6
One of these days I'm gonna get Tage Frid's book on furnituremaking. I'll bet he covers this situation.
One of these days was today. I found a used hardcover, all three editions of "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" in very good condition for $8.00, including shipping.
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Post by sachbvn on Jun 2, 2010 12:56:41 GMT -6
Awesome Cody - that is a pretty sweet find.
Zac
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Post by dalearmbruster on Jun 2, 2010 13:08:32 GMT -6
Let us know what he says about the glue Cody.
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Beamer
Forum Management 
Posts: 1,176
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Post by Beamer on Jun 2, 2010 18:47:36 GMT -6
One of these days I'm gonna get Tage Frid's book on furnituremaking. I'll bet he covers this situation. One of these days was today. I found a used hardcover, all three editions of "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" in very good condition for $8.00, including shipping. Well that sounds a bit like my kinda shoppin  Could you tell me where? I'd like one |
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Post by Ruffnek on Jun 2, 2010 21:07:37 GMT -6
The book actually came from Alibris but I found it through bookfinder.com
They've got thousands of books listed for sale from individuals and also from dealers. I usually buy used books that are listed in very good or excellent condition but they also list new books. I've never been disappointed in the condition as it's always been as good or better than advertised.
I've found it to be an economical way to build my woodworking library.
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