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Post by sdb777 on Dec 21, 2009 19:35:18 GMT -6
Okay, I guess I'm really slow, my chin-strap on my helmet is too tight, I missed the short-bus......or what have you. But I have failed to find a chart for turing speeds for certain types of wood.
Anyone got a link or possibly a title of a real book?
Scott (video would be great too) B
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Post by woodmangler on Dec 21, 2009 19:42:38 GMT -6
I have a really complicated formula for lathe speed...
Rule (1)
Turn as fast as you can without introducing vibration.
Rule (2)
The faster your lathe speed, the faster you get done
Rule (3)
The faster the lathe speed, the smoother the cut.
Rule (4)
When in doubt, see Rule (1)
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Post by sachbvn on Dec 21, 2009 19:44:23 GMT -6
Well Scott - I think the biggest thing with turning speeds - is not so much what type of what, but what you are turning.... for example - a small pen project? You can pretty much turn at whatever your lathe will run - some say 3k rpm is fine.
A large bowl blank... yeah - you wanna back that sucker down real slow.
Kinda with router bits.... a small straight bit can run at max speed....a big ol' honkin' raised panel bit needs to be slowed WAY down.
Other times you may want to run at a slower speed is when finishing.... but that's all trial and error kinda stuff.... guys can lend advice, but - the biggest thing is SAFETY with how fast you are running your lathe.
Please - others - chime in!
Zac
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 21, 2009 20:12:18 GMT -6
I'll even pitch in.
Wood - as a rule - likes to be cut at high speeds, about the highest we can muster with our mortal-man's machines. Higher, in lots of cases.
On a lathe, physics gets into the way by introducing "lathe hop" when we turn large unbalanced workpieces, or sometimes even centrifugal speed, which may spread the rim of a larger object (especially if the rim isn't continuous because of a crack or bark inclusion or natural opening).
Centrifugal force can also play hob with a lathe chuck; they each have a rated "safe speed", beyond which the chuck jaws may spread & loosen on the workpiece, or if the chuck isn't overbuilt the chuck itself may fly apart at very high speeds just like an over-revved car engine will. Chuck'll be naturally more resistant to catastrophic failure than a car motor, though, so that doesn't happen often... but the jaws CAN LOOSEN beyond their rated speed.
Long's the limits of the equipment aren't exceeded, and long's the wood's got good integrity, and long's the lathe ain't bangin' around the room, though, you're pretty much good to run it as fast as you'd like. The faster you run it, by & large, the better the quality of the finish you can get with your tools.
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Post by sdb777 on Dec 22, 2009 5:44:50 GMT -6
Common sense comes into play.....got it!
Go fast to get a cleaner cut............got it!
Go slow for big stuff to keep the lathe bolted down......got it!
Scott (ya'll just make it too easy) B
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Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
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Post by Doug B on Dec 22, 2009 13:33:18 GMT -6
I don't have anything much to add except that you want to keep the heat down when sanding by slowing the speed down. Especially with pens which seem to really have issues when over-heated.
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Post by sachbvn on Dec 22, 2009 16:37:28 GMT -6
I find that some Cocobolo sands just fine, other stuff seems to get hot and gum up the paper something awful.... probably more oily or something.
Zac
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sawduster
Moderator 
The Motley Crew
Posts: 1,831
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Post by sawduster on Dec 23, 2009 11:55:07 GMT -6
Yep, what Marc said.
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