new shop...

[lexrex]

Well, our new house is almost ready. I figure we should be in within 4 weeks. I am packing up my shop at the rental and won't be doing much WWing until the spring. I need to get a pick of my latest project up, a very simply ash tray for cigar. I tried a simple inlay and failed but I learned a lot...I digress.

The new shop will be in an unfinished basement. It's a 13 course basement so I'll have a finished 8' ceiling if I choose. I will be spending some time this winter learning how to frame in the space and hanging a wall. I think painted OSB will be the choice.

Does anyone have painted OSB? Care to post a pic of what it looks like finished?

I'll start after the holidays. I figure working some nights and weekends I should have a workable shop by March. Since I've never so much as built a single wall I'm putting in a lot of research/learning time. I also had the electrician add a 125A sub panel for the shop so I am more than set up for electric. Can't wait to start!

[maxwellsmart007]

no pic, but painted osb doesn't look great...did it on my shed, and it's fine, but nothing I'd want on anything that isn't a shed!

[lockman]

I did painted OSB on my shop ceiling. It turned out nice, however it sucks paint up like there is no tomorrow. I think it took me 4 coats sprayed and them back rolled. It is easier to put up by your self than dry wall in my opinion.

[lexrex]

If it looks that bad I supposed I could do ply. I don't really want drywall because I want the support for putting up storage, etc. almost everywhere.

[TDHofstetter]

With yer PICTURE yer a dead GIVEAWAY!

Quick peeks at painted OSB:

[lockman]

That is why I had to do so many coats, mine is mostly white. The effort I am thinking was not worth the savings (it the time I was in CHEAP mode). If you can do ply it will save you many hours of work and look better in the long run.

[sawduster]

I don't know that you'll get much additional hanging power away from studs with OSB or ply instead of sheet rock, unless, maybe, you went with 3/4" ply. Anything needing more than a screw in anchor like these


or these metal ones,


will require finding a stud to bolt or nail to. A buddy of mine went with OSB in his shop mainly because it was cheaper at the time than sheet rock. He wishes he had used sheet rock.

[Leo Voisine]

Oh yeah - from the pic I know how ya are - WELCOME

You will be fine building your shop.

I did it twice.

First shop was very crude in the basement

Second one took me 7 years and there is still a little more to do - but it is functional.

125 amps just for your shop --- WOW --- I only have 40 amps

[TDHofstetter]

That's what I've got, too - 40 amps total, including the welder line. My HOUSE only has about a 150, and the shop draws from the house.

[woodmannie]

I'm doing rock in mine. i had OSB in the old one. It was ok but the rock takes paint better so I can white the walls and save on lighting.
125? WOW. I got 60 and it runs everything.
When you got a question about studing, or building, just fire away. A lot of us have been there, done that.

Tom

[lexrex]

Yeah, the 'trician said that it was only the cost of the box and a bigger wire gauge (only a short length because the main box is right next to it). It gives me room to add some circuits for the other part of the basement (we have a full) where LOML has ideas for the future, maybe a guest room and half bath or something. WAAAAY down the road

The shop will roughly be the size of a two car garage. I'm sure I'll be coming here a lot for advice.

[Beamer]

I did painted osb on the floor- really just T&G OSB Subflooring 1" thick. I laid sleepers down and plastic and the whole bit. Painted it white. It looks like the pictures Tim posted. Biggest problem I have is sweeping sucks - really small dust just gets caught in the dips.

I went with drywall on the walls and ceiling. Mostly because hunting for a stud doesn't bug me enough to go through the expense of 3/4" thick ply. It's quite a lot more expensive than drywall and I have a reliable stud finder. The benefit just didn't outweigh the cost, to me. Plus, I was going to paint it all white (light reflection!) anyway.

I also got lucky in that the whole building was VERY well studded. Even 50 years ago with REAL 2x4's, every single stud is DEAD on 16" OC. I just had to remember which corners were the "end" corners (up front, thankfully) and I could find any stud just by measuring.

I put in the ceiling and, wouldn't you frickin' know it, those studs aren't quite as well spaced as the originals. I can still hit a stud by measuring about 80% of the time. Once I find a known stud, it's a little easier.

When you go to do the framing, don't think in numbers right off. That first stud in should NOT be 16" away from the end stud. Measure out 96" from wherever your sheet goods will start and realize that a stud must be split in the middle RIGHT there. Coming back 16" OC from that point will put that first inner stud at 15 1/4" (16 minus half of 1.5, actually).

I thought i was sooooooo friggin smart that I ignored that little directive in the handyman books I had laying around. Turns out, them handymans are smartymans, too. After pulling a few mis-starts, I finally got it worked out, cut a spacer block and went to town. But those first ones took me a little bit...

[lexrex]

Oct 31, 2009 15:50:39 GMT -6 sawduster said:

I don't know that you'll get much additional hanging power away from studs with OSB or ply instead of sheet rock, unless, maybe, you went with 3/4" ply. Anything needing more than a screw in anchor like these


or these metal ones,


will require finding a stud to bolt or nail to. A buddy of mine went with OSB in his shop mainly because it was cheaper at the time than sheet rock. He wishes he had used sheet rock.

So....I've never done drywall. What will be faster, 1/2 ply or drywall/tape/mud?

I want to complete the shop ASAP so I can start working again!

[Joe Lyddon]

Chris,

Looks like you'll be in very close to Thanksgiving!

That would be a nice way to celebrate your new home... hope you make it...

Christmas... for sure!

Happy Holidays!

[TDHofstetter]

Drywall or plywood - they'll hang as quick either way, but the drywall's much faster to cut to shape (score & snap). For shop space, I wouldn't go so far as to tape & mud it, just leave the seams visible.

EDIT: Oh, I might add... drywall provides one layer of protection against fire, too, whereas plywood doesn't. Drywall absorbs humidity from the air and holds it internally. The drywall cannot exceed 212 degrees F until all that moisture has been boiled off, which takes some time.

It's not firePROOFING, but it helps.

[lexrex]

Oct 31, 2009 19:04:12 GMT -6 TDHofstetter said:

Drywall or plywood - they'll hang as quick either way, but the drywall's much faster to cut to shape (score & snap). For shop space, I wouldn't go so far as to tape & mud it, just leave the seams visible.

EDIT: Oh, I might add... drywall provides one layer of protection against fire, too, whereas plywood doesn't. Drywall absorbs humidity from the air and holds it internally. The drywall cannot exceed 212 degrees F until all that moisture has been boiled off, which takes some time.

It's not firePROOFING, but it helps.

Great point Tim, no need to make it look great, I can always go back and do that if I need. I do like the idea of ply though to give that wood grain look throughout but I have a budget to stay in. Decision, decisions.

Another nice tidbit is that there is rough plumbing for a half bath which I think I can run a sink/tub to, which would be outstanding to have inside the shop space.

[Beamer]

Plumbing in the shop RULES.

I cannot tell you how mcuh i love my sink. When I get the "extension" built on the back and move the compressor/DC into it, the closet in the corner of mine is all set to have a terlit.

Then all I'd need is a hot plate and a cot ... the wife'd never have to deal with me again

[admin]

Chris,

I can work three times as fast with plywood than with drywall. And, if I accidentally warp a sheet of ply, usually it doesn't break. Drywall isn't so resilient to warpage. (I've actually seen a guy carrying a sheet of drywall above his head jostle it wrong and make it into a rapidly designed sandwich board, ready to have an ad painted on front and back.)

My vote is for plywood.

[woodmannie]

I gotta say rock it. Like Tim said, don't tape it. Think how easy it will be to find studs.
And cost. 1/2" rock is around $6. Ply around $13. And if your painting it, how much of that nice grain will show through?
And for ease, you use a knife and little keyhole saw(sawzall blade works) compared to a circular saw, jig saw, drill, driver, all the extention cords, etc for the ply.

Tom

[TDHofstetter]

...and you've got a great excuse to own a RotoZip.

I bought my factory-reconditioned RotoZip for about $30, and there's no easier way in the world to cut out a window hole. BZANG.

I've cut out a lot of outlet boxes & window holes with mine so far... and only had to replace the cutter once. Good thing, too, 'cause that little box of cutters is a WITCH to find in this place.