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Post by sachbvn on Dec 1, 2009 23:00:11 GMT -6
I'd like to make some bottle stoppers - and now I have some people asking for them so I HAVE to get crackin!  Still green to all of this - what is the easiest method to get started? For instance, some kits seem like they require a chuck - others don't. I do not have a chuck - can someone tell me how to go about making a stopper w/o a chuck - AND which kit would work for me? w/o a chuck - would I have to use a draw bar? Thanks, Zac |
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Post by maverick31 on Dec 1, 2009 23:07:34 GMT -6
easiest thing I did was order a few bottle stopper kits and a mandrel from penn state. I think the mandrel was like 10 bucks. It even came with a drill bit but I ended up getting a different bit since the penstate bit was slightly larger than the hole needed to be. (really a 3/8 inch hole is what you need to drill to accept their bottle stopper kits) With the bit that came with the mandrel I ended up stripping out some of the threads inside the blank while it was on the lathe. once i was done on the lath my chrome end would not screw in the blank. Once I bought a 3/8 bit it solved this problem. I guess you could make your own mandrel, but for 10 bucks you might as well just buy one
hopefully boodrow will reply apparently he has a bunch of mandrels, I am not sure if he made his own or bought them.
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Post by maverick31 on Dec 1, 2009 23:09:23 GMT -6
this is the kit I use and its on sale www.pennstateind.com/store/BS8.htmlfigures they are out of stock until after christmas though. mandrel is at bottom of the page hopefully this will at least get you in the right direction. |
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Post by sachbvn on Dec 1, 2009 23:13:04 GMT -6
Did that mandrel just screw around the little spindle thing on the lathe? The thing that face plates screw on to?
That seems like a pretty sure fire way to get started!
Zac
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 1, 2009 23:17:57 GMT -6
Whatcha' need is a stopper arbor, which is built very much like a screw (woodworm) chuck. It's naught more than a large threaded sleeve that screws onto your spindle, with a threaded screw sticking out toward the tailstock. Its threads match the threads on the bottle stopper's metal tip. You thread your blank onto it & turn away till it's done, then you unscrew your new stopper & screw it onto the metal tip.
Note that the stopper arbor MUST be matched to the kits; a stopper arbor from, say, WoodCraft may or may not fit stopper kits from PSI, or from Berea, or from WoodTurnersCatalog, or Packard. Some may interchange, some may not.
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Post by maverick31 on Dec 1, 2009 23:28:57 GMT -6
Did that mandrel just screw around the little spindle thing on the lathe? The thing that face plates screw on to? That seems like a pretty sure fire way to get started! Zac yes It screws directly to the spindle and then it screws to the wood blank for turning. once your done turning/finishing just unscrew it and then you can screw on your stopper part and you are golden or screwed I am not sure which yet?  ? |
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Post by maverick31 on Dec 1, 2009 23:30:43 GMT -6
Whatcha' need is a stopper arbor, which is built very much like a screw (woodworm) chuck. It's naught more than a large threaded sleeve that screws onto your spindle, with a threaded screw sticking out toward the tailstock. Its threads match the threads on the bottle stopper's metal tip. You thread your blank onto it & turn away till it's done, then you unscrew your new stopper & screw it onto the metal tip. Note that the stopper arbor MUST be matched to the kits; a stopper arbor from, say, WoodCraft may or may not fit stopper kits from PSI, or from Berea, or from WoodTurnersCatalog, or Packard. Some may interchange, some may not. yeah what he said, I am not sure which mandrels are interchangeable between companies since I have only used the pennstate kits. |
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Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
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Post by Doug B on Dec 2, 2009 0:04:12 GMT -6
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Post by sachbvn on Dec 2, 2009 0:08:29 GMT -6
Thanks Doug - I think I will be trying the PSI version - it looks super simple to use, and the kits aren't a bad price. I will pry be ordering it in the near future - 10 bucks - can't beat that, even if I end up changing the way I make them in the future - it isn't a bad price - plus you get the drill bit too.
Zac
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Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
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Post by Doug B on Dec 2, 2009 0:17:02 GMT -6
Yeah that looks very interesting...I already had a Jacobs chuck for drilling (you will probably end up with one of those too someday  ) but the PSI looks like a great deal. <edit> Oh yeah, when you get a Jacobs chuck, be sure to get one that is tapped for a draw bar...makes things so much less stressful when you need to pull the tailstock back. |
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Post by boodrow on Dec 2, 2009 4:38:59 GMT -6
Zac I just got my ole carcass out of bed , without readin all that is posted above here is how I do it and its worked well for me.
I just the penn state mandrel , it screws directly on to the head stock no chance of mis alignment. It comes with a drill bit , but like mav said its a little to large. I think he had a type also , I use a 5/16 bit to drill the blank. Another thing bout drillin be sure u use a clamp or drill vise to hold the blank , if u dont the bit will tend to want to wobble out the inside of the blank , I learned this the hard way. Also measure the length of threads on the mandrel , then add just a little to the length and mark ur drill bit with a piece of tape or anything to tell u that ur deep enough.
After drilling use a 3/8 x 16 tap to make u some starter threads on the inside of the blank to give u proper alignment for screwin the blank onto the mandrel. Dependin on the wood u use , lets say bois de arc u will have to tap the entire length , of if its soft wood like palm of bloodwood all u want to do is thread it just enough to get it started on the mandrel straight.
As far as the wood , if u buy the kits u pay to much for the wood , I would suggest buyin 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 12" stalks from craft supplies , they are cheaper than penn state. I mite also add , that u try the zebra wood , purple heart , cocobolo to start with , they are stable wood that turn well. I figure ive turned over 500 hundred of these and this setup works well for me.
Hope this helps
Boodrow
Hope this helps u.
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Post by dicklaxt on Dec 2, 2009 5:16:39 GMT -6
How about a friend named Charles,his nicknames Chuck and he might have a chuck you could borrow and if not, just chuck it ;D
dick
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Post by sachbvn on Dec 2, 2009 11:14:54 GMT -6
Boodrow - great advice - never thought about pre-tapping the blank so that ya get a good and proper starting alignment - I do have some taps so that's a go! Thanks for the heads up on the purchasing through PSI or wherever.... they advertise their blanks as 2x2xwhatever - and I'm thinking.... well.... couldn't you use something a bit slimmer and just not have as fat of a bottle stopper? I like idea of buying more of a "spindle" and just cutting it to length. Thanks for the heads up on which types of wood are good to start with - I love Cocobolo so I'll pry start with that. Dick - tell your friend Charl-uck I have PM if he does too  Zac |
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Post by boodrow on Dec 2, 2009 18:37:48 GMT -6
Zac I have lots of the penn state mandrels , they are cheap like 10 dollars each. I keep plenty of spares because when I used to lay um down in my shop I mite not see um again for 6 months. That has changed now. Good luck in gettin started , if I can help u with any additional info feel free to ax me anytime.
Boodrow
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?
) but the PSI looks like a great deal. 
