mr
WoW Member
Posts: 31
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Post by mr on Jun 11, 2010 12:07:27 GMT -6
What kind of finish would you recommend for a mahogany coffee table? I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I've read that that's not great on open-grained woods. Plus, is that enough protection for a coffee table?
I hate the finishing step, and I need the table to be functional by next weekend, so long steps of sealing/sanding/finishing/sanding/finishing/etc. isn't ideal in this situation.
Can I get a decent protective finish with a few coats of Danish Oil? If not, any other suggestions?
Thanks!
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Post by Leo Voisine on Jun 11, 2010 15:24:08 GMT -6
Spray can of Poly.
I really do not know of any way to get a real nice and well protected finish, without the work.
A coffee table is subject to spills. I think Poly is the best finish to use, especially for something like spills. However, it requires the work.
Maybe the best compromise, is to get a spray can of poly. But, it is still going to take sanding between coats.
You "could" do a paste wax finish, or tung oil, or some other oil finish, but you will not get the protection.
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rrich
WoW Member
Posts: 737
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Post by rrich on Jun 11, 2010 17:04:18 GMT -6
You could easily apply two coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish between now and next weekend. While it would be best to apply a top coat of something, paste wax would be sufficient. The MAOF contains a varnish of sorts and will protect to a degree.
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Post by cabinetman on Jun 11, 2010 18:24:10 GMT -6
How you want the wood to look will determine the type of finish you apply. If you want to fill the grain, use a paste wood filler (AKA grain filler). Then you can use stains, or dyes if you like. On that you could use a spray lacquer finish (acetone based/lacquer thinner), for the fastest dry. Or a waterbased polyurethane, which is also a fast dry. Either of those two may give your final results in a day, two at the most. Or, you could use a lacquer sanding sealer with the lacquer as a topcoat. With the WB poly you need no sealer. Foregoing the grain filler will leave the wood more "woody looking". That is the grain will be more pronounced in dimension than if you used a grain filler. Or, you could use an oil base polyurethane or oil base interior varnish 50/50 mix as a wipe on finish. Mixing BLO or pure Tung oil will make for a longer dry time. The Minwax Antique Oil finish, or a Danish Oil finish has that type of mix. I wouldn't use any type of wax application, as it offers very little protection, and requires regular maintenance. Doing any further finishing would be inhibited by the wax and it would have to be removed which would be a PITA.
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Post by brburns on Jun 11, 2010 20:13:14 GMT -6
Laquer would probably be your best bet for good protection and fast aplication. You can get 3 coats of brushing laquer on in a single day. It protect fairly well. Not as good as poly or coversion laquer, but better than wax or oil.
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mr
WoW Member
Posts: 31
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Post by mr on Jun 15, 2010 12:54:34 GMT -6
Thanks for the replies.
I got three coats of satin wipe-on poly on today, and may do 1-2 more tomorrow.
I'll post pics of my old and new coffee tables once this one is completely finished.
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