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Post by deathwish on May 25, 2010 10:24:42 GMT -6
Due to unforseen circumstances (think: 'rock'), my picture window is no more. I have a glass company coming out to estimate replacing the glass to the state it was in . . . but I'm thinking I might want to change it up a bit. I'm going to have them quote making an insulated panel to replace the single inner pane . . . it would not be difficult to rework the opening for that. At present, it's a wood-framed single pane with an applied single pane storm. It's framed to the same height as the other windows on the first floor, which all took standard off-the-shelf 30-1/2x57 replacement windows when I did them, though it's not quite double the width. I see myself with three options that would use the existing opening . . . as I'd rather NOT get involved with siding. 1. Fix it and restore to old state (Pay a pro . . . too big for me to mess with) 2. Replace with two double hung units with a mullion (DIY and most likely a custom order) 3. Replace it with a double or triple casement unit (DIY and definitely a custom order) My wife would like the ventilation that option #2 or #3 would provide . . . I'd like the insulation benefit as well. I'd also like that if it happens again . . . it's a sash that can be brought to a glass shop instead of what I'm going through right now, which is huge chards o' glass. I'm not sure insurance will pay anything towards #2 or #3, but I can try . . . especially if the DIY cost of #2 or #3 is under the option #1 Pro cost. Any other ideas?? The opening (measured behind the stops) is 59 3/8w x 57h.
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Post by Knotty_Pine on May 25, 2010 12:37:34 GMT -6
If ventilation is what yer after, you could leave it as is...
Contact a few other insurance companies around, most will offer a good deal to prospective customers on either of the three options if you use a pro. Then, you can use that info to help negotiation with your current insurance. Most ins companies bend a lot when they see a customer heading across the street, even if it is a bluff.
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Post by deathwish on May 25, 2010 12:56:14 GMT -6
LOL, leave as it is . . . too bad I already sealed it up with packing tape . . . couldn't see wasting perfectly good plywood. I'm friends of the family of the insurance guy . . . dealing with him (owner of a 3-person office, including him) and buying insurance from a local company. I had a call back from him within hours of the incident . . . once I firm up what the options will cost, I'll get back to him, and he'll get the adjuster out. All that to say . . . I already get a good deal and I know where the money goes.
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Post by Beezlebub on May 25, 2010 16:14:21 GMT -6
"My wife would like the ventilation that option #2 or #3 would provide ."
What part of that did you not understand? I would take the wishes of the wife as marching orders! ;D
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Post by deathwish on May 26, 2010 10:47:48 GMT -6
I had the glass guy out for the estimate this morning . . . he's going to call it over to me. Also talked to the insurance agent, he said as long as what I want to do is either less expensive, or I pay the difference, they'll let me claim it if I'm doing an 'improvement'. The window unit will run me about $600 special order, and it will qualify for the tax credit . . . I'll have to wait and see what the glass replacement estimate is. There is also a warehouse locally that has 1,000's of special order cancellations and odd lots . . . they are open late tonight, who knows, I might get lucky and find one around the right size there! As long as it's close, I know a guy handy with woodworking tools that can alter the opening without making too much of a mess.
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Post by deathwish on May 26, 2010 22:33:03 GMT -6
Glass guy quoted me $610+tax to restore the original glass . . . yikes.
A custom order window unit is around the same $$. Buying two Anderson 400 series units and cobbling them together will also run about $600 . . . about $400 if I do the same with lesser replacement windows and mullion/nail flange kit. At least I do have some 'in-stock' options!
I did hit the Building outlet and found a window that may work, I have to remove the trim inside the house and see how much height I can gain taking out the existing top jamb and stool/outer sill (basically take it back to the original RO on height) as it's about 4" taller than the existing window opening. The unit is a pair of double hung, each 6/6 with intergral j-channel and 'faux seat' on the outside . . . and best part, it's only $200, meaning I can avoid the whole insurance issue and just DO IT! Finger crossed I have the room for it!
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Post by fredbelknap on May 27, 2010 5:50:20 GMT -6
Just a thought. I usually looks better if windows and doors are the same height. Sometimes it is easier to go down than up, non load bearing.
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Post by deathwish on May 27, 2010 8:24:45 GMT -6
Just a thought. I usually looks better if windows and doors are the same height. Sometimes it is easier to go down than up, non load bearing. I'm only going to be changing it slightly, using the existing RO without modification. I'll know exactly how much it changes by how much vinyl siding I have to trim. ;D I popped off the window trim and measured the RO, and I should JUST be able to get the $200 unit into the opening. I may have to use a chisel or bullnose plane in one of the lower corners of the stud, but it will make it without tearing into the wall. Only thing that bothers me is the whole house is single pane (1/1) double hung, and this unit is 6/6 with the dividers inside the sashes. I asked my wife, and she didn't mind the difference since it's off to one side of the house that looks like an addition (though it's original), and it is the only 'twin' double hung. (And it avoids filing a claim!!) I called the store this AM and had them hold the window unit for me. I'll have to go with the trailer Saturday, as it'll never make it into the van with the j-channel/trim and extension jambs in place. I'll post some pictures once I get the swap going. I already have some 'before' pictures. If you ever have a need for a door or window unit, and it's not to far, I do recommend these guys! They have thousands of cancelled order/wrong size/overstock doors and windows, plus a decent selection of 'stock' items at fair prices as well. For example, I picked up an Anderson Silverline double hung replacement window last night for $59.99 in a 'normal' stock size of 30-1/2x57 . . . about a third of big box retail. www.buildingsuppliesoutlet.com/
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Post by woodmannie on Jun 2, 2010 21:49:12 GMT -6
Fred, if ya shrink the hole, load bearing isn't an issue since the original header is set already. But very good point to add in. Most people don't think about bearing walls. Remove or cut something out, ya can have big problems.
Tom
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Post by deathwish on Jun 3, 2010 9:13:03 GMT -6
Fred, if ya shrink the hole, load bearing isn't an issue since the original header is set already. But very good point to add in. Most people don't think about bearing walls. Remove or cut something out, ya can have big problems. Tom In this case I ripped out back to the R.O., then added a 2x back in to the width rather than 'blocking' like crazy. It's installed and the outside is all set with the siding back in place. I still need to trim out the inside, but that is not a 'critical' item like the broken window was. All of the original trim was carefully removed without breaking anything, then cut up with a sawzall . . . it's all a bit too short for the new opening. I'm going to try and make something somewhat close to the original . . . but it'll be under curtains anyway . . . and that room has painted woodwork . . .so it should be fairly easy of a job. Through the manufacturer, I found a (semi) local dealer and ordered some full screens this morning. They are running me another $53 on top of the window (which was $212.50 with tax), so I am barely over my $250 deductible when all is said and done . . . and I didn't have to file a claim, thus no loos of discount for me! I need to get some pictures of the before and after posted!
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