Doug B
WoW Member
[b]Rescued Firewood[/b]
Posts: 1,938
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Post by Doug B on May 23, 2010 0:07:14 GMT -6
Yep, the drawbore is the way to go whenever possible. Sounds like you are good to go E!
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Post by boodrow on May 23, 2010 5:25:25 GMT -6
I dont know how I havent gotten on this post ealier  I still use the PSI mandrel & dont have the RNiles one yet. There is a member of my woodturner assn that has a metal lathe , I bet I could get him to turn a PSI to the RN diameter for me for a small bit of change if not free. If that happens I will let u know how it turns out. Boodrow |
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Post by mcbryde on May 27, 2010 18:53:01 GMT -6
Sounds good Boodrow. I purchased a couple of bottle stopper kits from PSI last night, as I was making an order and they were on sale for 2.90 each. I couldn't pass them up for tinkering around and figuring out how I like turning them.
E
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Mark
WoW Member
I sure enjoy wood-chip showers!
Posts: 139
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Post by Mark on May 29, 2010 9:19:35 GMT -6
Is there something distinctly different about the Niles mandrel from the PSI mandrel that makes the drawbar necessary? I use the PSI, but am lookin' at going to Ruth's stoppers with my own-made bushing. Aren't both mandrels on Morse Tapers that lock 'em in tight enough for small turnings?
Mark
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Post by maxwellsmart007 on May 29, 2010 10:14:10 GMT -6
I find that my drill chuck with a morse taper will almost always work itself loose when I'm doing some heavier cuts....I always use a drawbar with that setup.
Actually, I find it's the drill chuck itself that separates from the morse taper now...not sure what can be done about that...
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Post by sachbvn on May 29, 2010 13:22:34 GMT -6
Is there something distinctly different about the Niles mandrel from the PSI mandrel that makes the drawbar necessary? I use the PSI, but am lookin' at going to Ruth's stoppers with my own-made bushing. Aren't both mandrels on Morse Tapers that lock 'em in tight enough for small turnings? Mark No - I think we've been talking about the PSI "chuck" which screws onto the spindle - the RN mandrel needs a draw bar because there is no pressure holding it into the MT.... you can use a friction fit - but honestly, that's ain't a real good idea, you are just asking that sucker to pop loose and bad chits gunna happen. You really need to secure it. Now.... if you use your tailstock to apply pressure on the stopper blank until you are all but finishing the tip where the tailstock was touching - and then sanding..... fine - but honestly - a draw bar is so easy to make - why not? Zac |
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Post by sachbvn on May 29, 2010 13:24:59 GMT -6
I find that my drill chuck with a morse taper will almost always work itself loose when I'm doing some heavier cuts....I always use a drawbar with that setup. Actually, I find it's the drill chuck itself that separates from the morse taper now...not sure what can be done about that... Maxwell - I have a drill chuck that doesn't accommodate a draw bar.... I open up the chuck so that the jaws are down inside the body (or just under flush) put the chuck in the head stock - give it a solid smack (not cave man style, just a little solid smack) with a rubber mallet to snug it into the MT and then turn CAREFULLY - gotta watch the aggressive cuts for sure. I've only used the drill chuck for a couple fan pulls. Zac |
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I still use the PSI mandrel & dont have the RNiles one yet. There is a member of my woodturner assn that has a metal lathe , I bet I could get him to turn a PSI to the RN diameter for me for a small bit of change if not free. If that happens I will let u know how it turns out.
