Post by elizabeth on Apr 30, 2010 12:02:03 GMT -6
Thanks, Art, Tim:
I am using a similar get-up as Rob suggested by making my existing sled (one level) workable for these small pieces. With the "window" technique and toggle clamps I am now able to dimension the pieces keeping the pattern centered. They are not perfectly square, and because of tear-out, I really need to use a sander to finish squaring them. Disk is good but I'm not confident of my control on it. It's why I thought of the Robo-Sander and making a Plexiglas template.
But before I go wasting more time I'm going to try Art's idea with the sanding block.
As to the double stick tape: I was thinking of either attaching the template to a double layer sled and run it through the Robo that way, or just put a tiny piece of DST in the corners and use corresponding Blue tape attached to the piece. This ought to release my workpiece better.
I'll keep you informed...
Thanks!
I am using a similar get-up as Rob suggested by making my existing sled (one level) workable for these small pieces. With the "window" technique and toggle clamps I am now able to dimension the pieces keeping the pattern centered. They are not perfectly square, and because of tear-out, I really need to use a sander to finish squaring them. Disk is good but I'm not confident of my control on it. It's why I thought of the Robo-Sander and making a Plexiglas template.
But before I go wasting more time I'm going to try Art's idea with the sanding block.
As to the double stick tape: I was thinking of either attaching the template to a double layer sled and run it through the Robo that way, or just put a tiny piece of DST in the corners and use corresponding Blue tape attached to the piece. This ought to release my workpiece better.
I'll keep you informed...
Thanks!