Dresser update

[Leo Voisine]

Last time on the dresser build --- History pt-1
worldofwood.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=genwork&action=display&thread=1942

Told you it was gunna be slow going.

Last couple of weeks I have not been able to get into the show very much.

I plan to spend a fair amount of time in the coming week.

So for today, I made a few pieces.

I have been enjoying playing with my chisels, and planes.

I bought a Ray Isles 1/4 mortise chopper a couple of years ago. Man that is one hefty strong chisel. You can really go to town with that bad boy.

I bought a little stanley bull nose plane that has a removable nose piece that has really come in handy too.

All in all - I am having a ball.

So today's progress pic:



The side assemblies are all glued up, but none of the cross members are glued yet.

[Stretch]

Looks good Leo. Are those grooves I see in the bottom? You making your own slides?

[Leo Voisine]

The dados are for placement and support of two upright spacers.

There will be two cabinet doors on the outer sections with a row of three drawers in the mid section. Two drawers in the top section.

So far it's looking pretty good.

[sawduster]

I bought a little stanley bull nose plane that has a removable nose piece that has really come in handy too.

That wouldn't be one of these little puppies, would it?



Long long time ago, Limey and I got together and agreed that the Stanley 75 was our least favorite of all hand planes. I sharpened the blade on mine and fiddled and fiddled getting it set so that it would cut halfway decent and have never used in again for fear of having to sharpen and reset it. ;D

I don't have any Ray Isles chisels, but I do love my vintage Oval Bolstered Mortise chisels. Nothing like em for chopping mortises.

[rhull]

Mar 13, 2010 20:00:18 GMT -6 Leo Voisine said:

So far it's looking pretty good.

I agree!

[Beamer]

Lookin' Good, Leo!!

Startin' to look like a 3-dimensional physical somethin or 'nother, now!

[rnemtp3]

I like seeing the progression. Sometimes trying to figure out how something was done from looking at the finished piece is kinda hard. Thanks and keep up the pics and descriptions.

[Gecko]

Mar 13, 2010 20:03:33 GMT -6 sawduster said:

I bought a little stanley bull nose plane that has a removable nose piece that has really come in handy too.

That wouldn't be one of these little puppies, would it?



Long long time ago, Limey and I got together and agreed that the Stanley 75 was our least favorite of all hand planes. I sharpened the blade on mine and fiddled and fiddled getting it set so that it would cut halfway decent and have never used in again for fear of having to sharpen and reset it. ;D

I don't have any Ray Isles chisels, but I do love my vintage Oval Bolstered Mortise chisels. Nothing like em for chopping mortises.

I agree with that. I have one and after tuning it an trying to use it, it just sits. It has like a jointer mouth on it. Weird, useless little thing.

[Gecko]

Mar 13, 2010 20:00:18 GMT -6 Leo Voisine said:

The dados are for placement and support of two upright spacers.

There will be two cabinet doors on the outer sections with a row of three drawers in the mid section. Two drawers in the top section.

So far it's looking pretty good.

I agree. Looking really good.

[Joe Lyddon]

Leo, perhaps, in your history links, you could include links to your Planning session posts where the SketchUp shows the finished project?

Might fill-in a few that didn't see it from the very start... ;D

[Leo Voisine]

Well, actually it's in there - but you need to click on the link - then in that thread click on the history link.

In the next updates I will have the links separate.

Anyway - this is the design phase -- NOT sketchup -- Solidworks.

worldofwood.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=genwork&action=display&thread=1155

I have not yet designed the upper drawers, but that is just a simple matter.

Sketch - this will give a little better idea about the dados in the bottom.

[Leo Voisine]

Mar 13, 2010 20:03:33 GMT -6 sawduster said:

I bought a little stanley bull nose plane that has a removable nose piece that has really come in handy too.

That wouldn't be one of these little puppies, would it?



Long long time ago, Limey and I got together and agreed that the Stanley 75 was our least favorite of all hand planes. I sharpened the blade on mine and fiddled and fiddled getting it set so that it would cut halfway decent and have never used in again for fear of having to sharpen and reset it. ;D

I don't have any Ray Isles chisels, but I do love my vintage Oval Bolstered Mortise chisels. Nothing like em for chopping mortises.

Jerry - the Ray Isles Mortise Chisel is made out of D@ tool steel. You just ain't gonna break that stuff. You just don't need no stinkin starter holes.

My bullnose? Actually this is the first time I used it. I don't have a rabit plane, or I would have used that. I could have done with just a chisel - but hey - we collect these things for something - right?



The nose piece is removable to make it work as a chisel plane.

I used it to shave a tenon down a little.

[sawduster]

Ah, yes, that #90 is a much better plane than the 75. The blade depth adjuster makes a world of difference.

How is that D2 steel for sharpening? Bet it holds a good edge for a while.

[Leo Voisine]

I have not sharpened it yet - but I KNOW what D2 is. We make guages out of D2 at work every day. Even grinding it is a bear.

I anticipate having a difficult time sharpening it.

[sawduster]

Dem big mortise chisels benefit from being hollow ground at a pretty acute angle, maybe 20 - 25 degrees, then having a secondary bevel (maybe 1/8" wide) close to 30 degrees right at the cutting edge. The 30 degree cutting bevel gives you the strength to preserve the cutting edge, while the narrower angle behind it allows you to go deeper into the wood with each blow of the mallet.

And doing that will save time on the stones after you're done with the grinder.

[Leo Voisine]

I am done for today.

I glued up the front framing.

[Leo Voisine]

I took the clamps off the framing this morning - and sanded in the little mismatching that was there.

I am off to a breakfast this rainy morning with an old buddy. I'll be at it a bit later.

I will post an update pic or two later tonight.

Thanks, for the comments - that stuff is truly inspiring to me.

Leo

[cabinetman]

Mar 14, 2010 16:06:11 GMT -6 Leo Voisine said:

I am done for today.

I glued up the front framing.

Fabrication techniques most used in carcass construction when there are dividers and drawers can be done a few different ways.

If a face frame is used, plywood panels are set into dadoes in the floor, and into a cross rail (below the drawers). Full plywood front to back dividers are set into that rail and run front to back and attach to a top rail that runs horizontally across the front of the cabinet.

The face frame (which is made and assembled completely is then glued and clamped to all the leading edges, with face grain forward.

Front framing for plywood panels (or solid wood for that matter), that gets set into dadoes in the floor are attached to those panels before they get assembled. Then those panels get the solid wood glued and clamped to the front edge of the panels. They don't get assembled and then added to the interior panels as a frame. They get trimmed to the panel front edges and get installed to the carcass.

The tops of those panels support the lower cross rail under the drawers. The top rail over the drawers and a similar rear rail holds the drawer dividers. The top rear rail is also the top back frame to have the back rabbeted in, in which the rabbet matches the ends and the back edge of all dividers. The back will fasten to all those edges and keep the cabinet square if well fitted.

[rhull]

Mar 15, 2010 6:58:52 GMT -6 cabinetman said:

The face frame (which is made and assembled completely is then glued and clamped to all the leading edges, with face grain forward.

Huh? Isn't that what he's doing?

[Leo Voisine]

Pretty close Rob, but I have deviated a little from what cabinetman has stated.

I got my ideas from some furniture I saw at a furniture store. I don't know how the furniture store piece was constructed, so I just put my imagination cap on.

The design is my own. I am not a furniture designer, so if I got some of it right, it's just by shear luck. I did the design based on what I thought I could do in the shop.

I am happy with it thus far.

I am open to to comments from anyone more experienced than I am in furniture building. I can not lay claim to being an "experienced" furniture builder. However, I am not afraid to try.