Thin Kerf Rip Blade?

[scottd]

I'm in need of a 10" TK rip blade for my tablesaw. What do you use/recommend?

Thanks,

Scott

[autobodyman]

I use this one:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5J4QY/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000225UH&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19Q7PCFA7FC3NPDJ4GYQ
On my Sears tablesaw. Works well for me.

~Mike

[wisardd1]

I got a woodworker II. Yes, it is all it is expected to be.

[Doug B]

Sonny and Keystone, and probably some others of the old-timers from the old place recommended Systimatic blades and I got a thin kerf one from JustSawblades linked to below.

I have had good results with the saw blade on my Ridgid contractor TS, and this site is really, really handy to help figure out saw blade info. justsawblades.com/systimatic/thin_line.htm

[triplefreak]

I use THIS one. Works like a hot knife thru butter.

[dcarter636]

I have a .10" kerf Forrest Woodworker II on my contractor saw right now; it is ripping cheery fast, straight, smooth, and true, without any burning.

[TDHofstetter]

Can't help with thin-kerf... I run full-kerf. I've got the Freud Industrial blades, though; they do me very, very well.

[Leo Voisine]

The Forrest Woodworker II is NOT a RIP blade - it is a combo blade.

I have used the Freud Glue Line RIP blade for several years - I will vouch for that one. Definately better than a combo blade for ripping applications.

They do have a thin kerf glue line rip.

If you don't mind my asking --- WHY? --- do you want a "thin kerf" blade.

The answer "should" be talking about horsepower requirements.

[scottd]

Thanks for the replies. I've been considering the Forrest WWII:
www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10307100-Woodworker-10-Inch-Circular/dp/B000ONEMRU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1265740977&sr=1-3

and the Freud LM75:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5J4QY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_t1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=06XC1QY6F8BK1380JXHR&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846

Both are 30T TK rip blades. The WWII has a kerf that is in between the LM75 and a full kerf but its $30 more than the Freud. I have a 3hp cabinet saw so power isn't an issue. Both are good blades and either will work for my needs. Just too many things on my wish list right now....

Thanks,

Scott

[dcarter636]

Leo, are you saying that your Freud blade is giving a smoother rip than your WWII blade?
I hadn't previously read about your hands on experience with the Forrest blades.

[TDHofstetter]

I think what he's doing is comparing not Freud vs. Forrest, but rip blades vs. combo blades. I'll stand behind him on that assertation - a rip blade will, issues of quality aside, do a better job of ripping than a combo blade.

Ripping blades are built specifically for the purpose. Combo blades are built to do a "good enough" job of both ripping and crosscutting, but aren't optimized for either operation.

Spoken from my own experience with Freud Industrial blades... it's very hard for me to imagine any blade outperforming my F.I. ripping blade in a ripping operation. I get a truly glass-smooth cut, and it cuts oak & maple like butter.

[Ruffnek]

Feb 9, 2010 11:08:45 GMT -6 Leo Voisine said:

The Forrest Woodworker II is NOT a RIP blade - it is a combo blade.

Actually, it's a General Purpose blade. A combo blade has the teeth grouped in sets around the blade with gaps between the sets for chip removal. The WWII has the ATB teeth evenly distributed around the blade circumference.

I run a full kerf WWII and it's done everything I've attempted and done it well. The only time I think about going to a rip blade is when cutting kerfs for miter keys when a flat-topped blade would leave a cleaner bottom in the kerf. Since I joint after sawing and before gluing, I don't really care about a glue-line rip blade. Besides, with a properly set up saw, just about any good blade will give a glue line rip, IMHO.

As for the initial question, I think any of the premium blades like Freud, Forrest, Systematic, etc. will perform satisfactorily in full or thin kerf. It's really more a matter of personal preference, brand loyalty and money.

[dcarter636]

I understood Leo's comment Tim. Like Cody said the WWII is not a combination blade but a ATB blade, with equally spaced teeth.

My point here is that the WWII rips as fast and as well as any dedicated rip blade that I've used so far. It rips smooth edges as fast as you can effortlessly feed a 1¹/₄" cherry plank through. I was pleasantly stunned by that discovery.

Maybe Leo's freud blade does the same or better; I don't know because I haven't used one of those yet. However I think we would all benefit from the effort to note the difference twixt what we believe and what we know for fact.

[sawduster]

Yep, a true "combo blade" has sets of ATB teeth, then a single flat topped tooth behind a deeper gullet. If you see ATB in the description of the teeth you are looking at something other than a rip blade.

Scott,
For the money, I would go for the Freud if you need a true rip blade. Freud also makes a very good true thin kerf combo blade that I have had great results using, and it runs around $70 or so.

[scottd]

Thanks for the feedback. I've added the Freud to my cart. Now I've got to decide on a lathe chuck.

Scott

[Ruffnek]

Feb 9, 2010 18:15:09 GMT -6 scottd said:

Thanks for the feedback. I've added the Freud to my cart. Now I've got to decide on a lathe chuck.

Scott

I know, I know...waving hand in air.

Oneway Talon...period.

[scottd]

Feb 9, 2010 18:23:11 GMT -6 Ruffnek said:

Feb 9, 2010 18:15:09 GMT -6 scottd said:

Thanks for the feedback. I've added the Freud to my cart. Now I've got to decide on a lathe chuck.

Scott

I know, I know...waving hand in air.

Oneway Talon...period.

How bout the PSI 3000?

[TDHofstetter]

OneWay's really hard to beat. If ya want a really upscale chuck, shoot for the OneWay StrongHold. I'll vouch for that personally. If ya want a downscale chuck, there's also the Apprentice/Barracuda (same thing) chuck - I can vouch for that, too.

[Leo Voisine]

Dave,

Yes I have tried the Forrest blade. No I do not own one. Yes I will state that the Freud Glue Line rip does a better RIPPING job than the WW-II.

Sorry for mixing terminology - the Forrest is not a combo blade - it is a general purpose blade. It is not specifically designed "rip" blade - which is what the poster was asking about.

I had elaborated more - then removed it - because it sounded arguementive to me.

Forrest has sharpening abilities that are second to none, and it is great product.

I did not intend to dig on Forrest.

OK - nuff said.

[sawduster]

Forrest has sharpening abilities that are second to none, and it is great product.

Yep, they go to a finer grit of abrasive in their sharpening than others, and they will also sharpen other's blades if you send them in. Reason to spend the few extra bucks for a blade with enough carbide to be sharpened a few times, while saving the difference between the other blade and a Forrest.