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Post by sdb777 on Nov 29, 2009 18:51:31 GMT -6
I've spent hours looking around the internet, and looking through this forum. But I've found nothing to do the job. Was thinking I could find an over-sized pencil sharpener(or something like it), but I have found nothing! It doesn't have to be stick in something sharp(I'll be rounding it off)
Rod size is 5/8th inch in diameter, and 36" long.....oak.
Any ideas? Other then sanding, or carving with a knife.
Scott (need something simple) B
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Beamer
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Post by Beamer on Nov 29, 2009 19:08:09 GMT -6
They're out there - but they ain't cheap... these guys: www.hud-son.com/stakesharpener.htmTHey're more for mass producing stakes, though. Larger diameters, mostly, too. If i were to go about it, I'd use my stationary belt or disc sander and a block of 2x4 with a 5/8" hole in it. Cut the 2x4 off at the angle you want your pointed stick (or drill the hole at that angle) and use it as the guide for your sander. That way you'll get a more consistent and even bevel all the way around.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Nov 29, 2009 19:38:40 GMT -6
If it wasn't 5/8" diameter, I'd suggest chucking it in a drill, too, to spin it against the sander. Not may folks've got a 5/8" drill chuck on a handheld, though.
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rhull
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Post by rhull on Nov 29, 2009 20:40:52 GMT -6
I'd be temped to just drill a 5/8" hole in a piece of wood and make a jig for use with my belt sander.
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Post by sachbvn on Nov 30, 2009 5:12:14 GMT -6
How precise? I'd be inclined to flip over your belt sander and just go to town by hand..... How about a bench grinder? Neither method is probably the best method, but if you have either tool - it'd be a cheap way to do it.
Just curious - whatcha using this for?
Zac
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Post by triplefreak on Nov 30, 2009 7:36:57 GMT -6
Do a Google search for tenon shapers. They're mostly used by chair makers. They have sizes down to 1/4" IIRC.
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sawduster
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Post by sawduster on Nov 30, 2009 10:33:09 GMT -6
A good old fashioned spoke pointer like this one would work. This is a new one sold here but you can find vintage ones cheaper. They are great for starting a round tenon centered on a square work piece in preparation for using a hollow auger to complete the round tenon. The vintage ones will be for use with a brace.
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Nov 30, 2009 18:59:04 GMT -6
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Post by sdb777 on Nov 30, 2009 19:06:31 GMT -6
Just curious - whatcha using this for? Zac Shooting stick legs. Scott B
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tw
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Post by tw on Dec 2, 2009 13:45:27 GMT -6
I would do it with a knife followed by sandpaper......but I have been told before that you Americans dislike knives and axes for accurate woodworking.
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Post by dcarter636 on Dec 2, 2009 15:14:12 GMT -6
Yes, whittling a point with one's knife would be the traditional way to tip a shooting stick.
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Post by rblusthaus on Dec 2, 2009 17:50:31 GMT -6
two better ways that I can think of.
First - get a Tru Taper tool from a traditinal archery store - about 28 bucks. They work fairly well for making the nock and point end for arrows and should work well for making your dowel pointy.
Second - take a scrap piece of ply and rout a groove on an angle from a straight edge. The depth and width of the groove to be sized to hold your dowel on the flat without much side to side movement. Then, clamp your ply to the table of your disk sander with the straight edge up against the disc. Slide the dowel in the groove against the disc and spin it, slowly, so the dics rounds and points the dowel all the way around.
The angle at which your groove was set will determine how far down the shaft you can taper that point.
If you go to 3Rivers Archery, they actually sell a piece of ply with two sets of grooves for the required angles for arrows. I think they are 5 and 11 degrees. For your application, I dont think the angle will matter all that much. You can either buy from them or make your own - - although I assume you will make your own.
Alot easier to do than for me to describe. Good Luck.
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Post by TDHofstetter on Dec 2, 2009 18:57:35 GMT -6
This is a new one sold here but you can find vintage ones cheaper. Example: www.patented-antiques.com/Backpages/T-F-S/edge/hollowaugres.htmLehman's never was accused of being "inexpensive". EDIT: 36" long? Aren't they supposed to be just about shooter height, so they can be kicked out at the bottom & still have the crossing point just below your eye? Or are you counting on using these in a sitting/kneeling position?
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Joe Lyddon
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Post by Joe Lyddon on Dec 2, 2009 19:34:29 GMT -6
I would do it with a knife followed by sandpaper......but I have been told before that you Americans dislike knives and axes for accurate woodworking. Roy Underhill likes to use them... and does it well... He's an American. ;D ;D I never heard of that before... Knives are used for marking for Dovetails, etc. (does that count?) Axes are used to split wood for chair legs, spindles, pen blanks, etc. (does that count?) Can't think of any more about it...
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Post by sdb777 on Dec 2, 2009 20:00:18 GMT -6
This is a new one sold here but you can find vintage ones cheaper. Example: www.patented-antiques.com/Backpages/T-F-S/edge/hollowaugres.htmLehman's never was accused of being "inexpensive". EDIT: 36" long? Aren't they supposed to be just about shooter height, so they can be kicked out at the bottom & still have the crossing point just below your eye? Or are you counting on using these in a sitting/kneeling position? Mostly used for sitting positions....at least my friends and I that hunt coyotes don't take chairs, but I image they would work in that application also. Use to make them out of carbon arrow shafts with a cobra stitch 550 paracord web, but I just wanted to get back to the wood. And the oak are only a tad bit heavier, but a LOT more sturdy! Thanks for all the great suggestions! I'll be trying out all of the homemade jigs suggestions, as I'd like to make my own stuff. And if they don't work as intended, the other suggestions will come in handy. Scott (great stuff) B
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